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I LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



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£ UNITED STATES OF AMERICA f 



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WEEKS, JORDAN AND COMPANY, 

» HAVE IN PRESS, 

The Economy of the Hog Pen, or the Raising, Feed- 
ing and Fattening of Swine, By Henry Colman, Agricultural 
Commissioner for the State of Massachusetts. 

ALSO IN PRESS, 

CULTURE OF THE DAHLIA, by E. Sayers, a small 
practical work. 

y 

THEY HAVE JUST PUBLISHED, 

Cobb's Silk Manual, 20 engravings. 

Kenrick's Silk Grower's Guide. Both of these are 
practical works, from the experience of the authors. 



Jacob Abbott's Books for the Young, 

The publishers invite the attention of Parents to the series of 
Rollo Books, by the author of the " Young Christian," com- 
bining good moral lessons with instruction and great interest ; 
they have been pronounced by the most competent judges the 
best books for the young in the English language. 



THE S$T~J 9 



AMERICAN 

FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION, 



BEING 



A PRACTICAL TREATISE 



ON THE • 



PROPAGATION AND CULTURE OF FRUIT, 

ADAPTED TO THE 
NORTHERN AND MIDDLE STATES. 

By E SAYERS. Gardener, 

AUTHOR OF THE AMERICAN FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION, ETC, 




BOSTON: 
WEEKS, JORDAN AND COMPANY. 
1839. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1333, by EDWARD S1.YER3, in the 
Clerk's Offiee of the District Court of Missach'jse;'.*. 



EJTTLE, DENNETT fc CHISHOLM.... .Printers.... 17 School Street. 



GEORGE C. TH OR BURN, Esq. 

OF N E W YORK, 
THE 

PRACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC HORTICULTURIST. 

THIS LITTLE BOOK 
15 

RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED 

BY 

HIS OELIGED FRIEND. 

THE AUTHOR. 



INTRODUCTION 



In presenting the "Fruit Garden Com- 
panion" to the public, the writer begs leave 
to state, that the principal object and de- 
sign of the work has been to condense in 
the most convenient form, as a manual, 
practical remarks on the culture and man- 
agement of the different kinds of fruit adapt- 
ed to the Middle and Northern States, for 
the fruit garden and orchard. 

At the commencement of the work seve- 
ral pages have been appropriated to the 
phytology of plants, in order to familiarize 
the young cultivator with some of the lead- 
ing characteristics of trees, as, the bud, 
flower, leaf, root, &c. In the description 
of this part of the culture of fruit trees, my 
object has been to use such terms as are the 
most simple and generally understood ; and 
hence many classical terms have been ren- 
dered into English, with a view to make 
horticulture familiar and easy, so far as or- 



viii 



INTRODUCTION, 



dinary and unobseure diction will favor that 
end. In most cases, where the classical 
name has seemed to be necessary, it has 
been inserted in italics. The professional 
botanist and naturalist will, I hope, make 
every allowance for a work that has no 
other aim than to render the culture of fruit 
easily accessible to the inquiring observer. 

In the Nursery department, which natu- 
rally follows the phytology of trees, I have 
given practical directions on the propagation 
of fruit trees from seed, and the many me- 
thods of grafting, budding, and bringing a 
fruit tree into the proper size and state for 
the final planting into the fruit garden and 
orchard. In this part of the treatise, it will 
be seen that I have rigidly adhered to a 
system of raising fruit trees from seed, in 
preference to that too often adopted of 
growing young trees from suckers, which 
are ever the offspring of a multitude of 
young plants that rob the parent and impov- 
erish the soil. 

In the different modes of culture of fruit, 
I have described those methods, which ap- 
peared the most simple and readily to be 
accomplished, and such as will most surely 
lead to a satisfactory result. To pretend to 
elucidate every nice point belonging to the 



/ 



INTRODUCTION • 



culture of fruit, in the present enlightened 
age of horticulture, would be undertaking a 
task which I must acknowledge I am utter- 
ly incapable to accomplish. But, so far as 
this manual has any pretensions to the cul- 
ture of fruit, I have given the results of 
practice, in a manner and with a view to 
assist the inexperienced cultivator : and any 
errors that might have occurred in penning 
the articles, or any theory that may appear 
improper to the scientific horticulturist or 
pomologist, I shall at all times be happy to 
correct. 

It would be superfluous for me in this 
place to enumerate the reasons, why and 
wherefore, for inserting the different articles 
in this little manual. They have all been 
inserted for one end, namely, to be useful 
to the young beginner in the culture of fruit. 
The different subjects treated on can be 
more readily comprehended by reference to 
the table of contents, than by a long expla- 
nation in an introduction. With these re- 
marks I send forth my little manual to the 
public, with a hope, that it may in a mea- 
sure prove to be, as its author intended, 
of some utility to the young cultivator of 
fruit. 

EDWARD SAYERS. 

March, 1839. 



CONTENTS. 



General Observations on the Culture and Manage- 
ment of Fruit, - 1^ 



PART FIRST. 

PROCESSES OF VEGETATION* 



CHAPTER I. 

REMARKS ON THE FOOD, STIMULANTS, ETC. OF PLANTS. 

Art. 1. On Earth and its use to Plants, - - 21 

2. On the Food of Plants, 22 

3. On Moisture, ----- 24 

4. On Drought, .... 25 

5. On Heat, ----- 26 



CHAPTER II. 

REMARKS ON THE DIFFERENT PARTS OF A TREE. 

Art. 1. On the Seed, -' 27 

2. On the Root, 29 

3. On the Leaf, - - - - 30 

4. On the Bud, - - . - - 32 

5. On the Flower or Blossom, - - 34 

6. On the Fruit, - 36 



Xll 



CONTENTS. 



PART SECOND. 

MANAGEMENT OF THE NURSERY. 



CHAPTER I. 

ON LAYING OUT THE NURSERY. 



Art. 1. On the Selection of the Ground, - - 38 

2. On preparing and laying out the Ground, - 40 

CHAPTER n. 

OX THE INCREASE OR PROPAGATION OF TREES. 

Art. 1, Increase bv Seed, - 41 

2. Increase by Cuttings, - - - 43 

3. Increase by La vers, - 44 

4. Increase by Inoculation, - - 45 

5. Increase by Grafting, - 47 

6. Inarching, - - - . 51 

CHAPTER nr. 

ON THE MANAGEMENT OF YOUNG PLANTS. 

Art. 1. Seedlings, ----- 52 

2. Cuttings, - - - 54 

3. Layers, ----- 55 

4. Buds, ------ 56 

0. Grafts, ----- 58 

6. The Inarch, ----- 59 

CHAPTER IV. 

SPRING MANAGEMENT IN THE NURSERY. 

Art. 1. Heading down Young Trees, - - CO 



4 



contexts. xiii 

Art. 2. Drawing Trees, - - - - 61 

3. On Clearing and Digging the Ground, - 62 

4. On Planting out Seedlings, &c. - 63 

CHAPTER V. 

SUMMER MANAGEMENT IN THE NURSERY. 

Art. 1. Hoeing and Clearing the Ground, - - 64 

2. Summer Pruning and supporting Young Trees, 65 

CHAPTER VI. 

FALL MANAGEMENT OF THE NURSERY. 

Art. 1. Destroying Weeds in Autumn, - - • - 67 

2. Covering and Protecting Trees, - - 68 



PAET THIRD. 

THE FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. 



CHAPTER L 

ON THE MANAGEMENT OF FRUIT TREES. 



Art. 1. On the Selection of Fruit, - - 70 

2. Location of the Fruit Garden or Orchard, 71 

3. Preparing the Ground, ... 72 

4. On Planfing Fruit Tress, - - - 72 

5. On the Pruning and Formation of Fruit Trees, 77 

6. On Thinning and Regulating Fruit, - - 79 



CHAPTER II. 

ON THE CULTURE AND MANAGEMENT OF BERRIES. 



Art. L General Remarks, 



52 



Xiv CONTENTS. 

Art. 2. On the Culture of the Strawberry, - 82 

3. On the Culture of the Raspberry, - - 85 

4. On the Culture of the Currant, - - 88 

5. On the Culture of the Gooseberry, - 90 

CHAPTER III 

CULTURE OF STONE FRUIT. 

Art. 1. On the Culture of the Plum, - - 92 

2. On the Culture of the Cherry, - - 95 

3. On the Culture of the Peach, - - 96 

CHAPTER IV. 

CULTURE OF FOMIFEROUS FRUITS. 

Art. 1. On the Culture of the Apple, - - =98 

2. On the Culture of the Pear, - - 102 

3. On the Culture of the Quince, - - - ]04 

4. On the General Culture of Fruit, - . 105 

CHAPTER V. 

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

Art. 1. Remarks on the Culture of the Vine, - 108 

2. Soil and Location, - - 109 

3. Propagation of the Grape Vine, - - 110 

4. Preparing the Ground and Planting, - 111 

5. Summer Pruning of the Grape, - - 112 

naturalizing the foreign grape. 

6. Growing the Grape from Seed, - - 116 

7. Naturalizing the Grape by Cutting, and Grafting, 117 

8. Diseases of the Grape, ... H9 

9. Select Varieties of Native Grapes, - - 121 

CHAPTER VI. 

MANAGEMENT OF THE VINERY. 

Art. 1. Planting and Preparing the Vinery, - 122 

2. First Year's Management, - 126 



/ 



CONTENTS. XV 

Art. 3. Second Year's Management, - - 127 

4. Forcing the Grape, - 127 

5. On the Culture of the Grape in the Vinery, 133 



PART FOURTH. 



MISCELLANEOUS ARTCILES AND DESCRIPTIVE 
LISTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Art 1. On Gathering and Picking Fruit, - 13S 

2. On Planting Live Fences, - - - 141 

3. On Protecting Fruit Trees, - - 144 

4. On the Culture of the Tomato, - * 147 

5. On the Culture of the Pie Plant, - - 149 



CHAPTER II. 



DESCRIPTIVE LISTS OF SELECT FRUITS. 



Strawberry, - - 


151 


Raspberry, 


- 153 


Currant, 


155 


Gooseberrv, 


- 157 


Plum, 


159 


Cherry, .... 


- 162 


Peach, - 


163 


Apple, .... 


- 166 


rear, 


169 


Quince, .... 


- 171 


Grape, 


172 



/ 



AMERICAN 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE CULTURE AND 
MANAGEMENT OF FRUIT. 

There are few branches of Horticulture, that 
are more deserving of a careful observation, than 
the culture of choice fruit ; yet there is scarce 
any subject connected with this science, that is 
less understood than this, except by a few indi- 
viduals that have paid much attention, and made 
minute investigation into the natural properties of 
fruit trees — who have in many instances not only re- 
alized every expectation, but in many ways received 
a compensation for their labors of the most satisfac- 
tory return. 

Choice fruit of almost any kind meets a pretty 
general demand in most of the markets in the 
Northern States ; nor has there been any lack in 
planting in most parts to meet the demand. How- 
ever, a deficiency is apparent, which must be con- 
sidered partly owing to mismanagement ; and unless 
better modes are applied and strictly attended to, 
the deficiency will in a few years be severely felt in 
many parts of the Union. In the first place, it will 
be seen that there is a mismanagement in the select- 
2 



18 FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 

ing of the ground and location to be planted, which 
by many persons is considered a subject not worth 
consideration ; when on the contrary on it depends 
the principal chance of success, — for if the soil and 
location are not well chosen the best efforts of culture 
will, in a measure be defeated, and the produce un- 
satisfactory ; hence in many an idea prevails, that it 
is impossible to bring the desired kinds of fruit into 
a healthy growth and bearing ; when the deficiency 
is wholly in placing it in an inappropriate situation. 
The most common error of this kind, may be seen 
in the apple-orchard ; and, although the J fact is ap- 
parent to any intelligent observer, no exertion is 
taken to counteract it by many persons who are en- 
gaged in planting orchards at the present time. The 
apple tree flourishes well in almost all parts of the 
Northern States, when planted in a sheltered situa- 
tion, on the base of small hills and alluvials in w 7 ell 
sheltered valleys, &c. — especially if the soil is of a 
rich mellow loamy nature, which is often to be 
found in such locations. The contrary location is 
that of unsheltered hills of a poor, gravelly nature, 
where the chilly northern winds have their effect on 
the trees. It seldom happens that trees so located 
either flourish or bear good crops of fruit ; the trees, 
both body and branches, are, in such situations 
blown all on one side, the limbs stunted and the 
bark covered with moss, the true indication of pov- 
erty and stagnation. The fruit of the former is 
mostly of a fine quality, good flavor and produce : 
the latter small, w T ormy, and of a meagre flavor and 
produce. The pear thrives well on stiff clayey 
soils, in a well sheltered situation. The plum is 
more local in its nature, than either the apple or 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 



19 



pear, for it seldom thrives well and fruits in perfec- 
tion but in a low, moist situation, where the soil is 
naturally rich or made so by adding plenty of ma- 
nure to it ; in such places the plum does well in 
most parts of the Union. The cherry, on the con- 
trary, will accommodate itself to almost any loca- 
tion, soil, or aspect in any part of the northern 
states, providing it is not winter killed which is 
sometimes the case with the tender kinds, but side 
hills and dry sandy bottoms are best adapted to the 
health and produce of the cherry. 

Every fruit indeed, will be found to have a natural 
tendency to a peculiar soil and location, which I 
shall endeavor to describe under the different heads 
of culture, as I proceed. 

A mismanagement is also often very apparent in 
planting trees, which in many cases is badly done, 
and s the result of retarding their growth when 
young in a manner that they never fully expand into 
a full growth and vigor ; and hence the cause of so 
many stunted trees, that are to be seen in almost 
every place. In many cases, fruit trees are much 
crippled in their early stage of growth, by allow- 
ing them to bear a quantity of fruit the first year 
after planting, by which their vigor and vital princi- 
ple is in a certain degree exhausted, and the tree 
never afterwards assumes that habit it would other- 
wise have attained. To the above, may be added 
the general neglect of pruning and thinning the 
branches of trees, and regulating them in such a 
manner that the sap has a regular flow to all and 
every part of them, their leaves, flowers and fruit. 

Under the head of culture, one very essential 
consideration should always be borne in mind by the 



20 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



cultivator, namely, that of planting in a proper 
manner, which is often little attended to or thought 
of : trees are often planted in a careless manner, and 
are merely left to chance in culture, which is the 
very thing that should meet the most strict attention 
in young trees. There are indeed but few things 
that require a more strict attention than a young 
plantation of fruit trees, which should be well work- 
ed among and manured almost every year. The 
reverse is often seen — young thrifty trees being 
planted in an uncultivated piece of ground, and per- 
haps neither cultivated nor manured for some years 
after the first introduction, when age in most cases 
rather decreases than increases their size and vigor. 
It is in the infant state that trees and plants of all 
kinds and denominations require the best culture 
and nutriment, to expand their organs, and form a 
good habit ; indeed, the first formation is the very 
essence of every other expectation that is to be real- 
ized in culture, either good or bad ; therefore, the 
result will be in accordance to the first management. 

In closing this article, it will be proper to state, 
that it is intended as a text only, to what is to fol- 
low ; the principal object of the treatise being to 
condense each separate part, under its individual 
head, in order to guard against repetition as much as 
possible : — therefore, the reader must not suspect 
the use of a quantity of paper, or number of w^ords, 
to be the object of the author ; but a short and plain 
manner of coming at once at the subjects hereafter 
to be treated upon. 



/ 



PART FIRST. 

PROCESSES OF VEGETATION. 



CHAPTER L 

REMARKS ON THE FOOD, STIMULANTS, ETC. OF PLANTS. 

Art. 1. — On Earth and its use to Plants. 

Earth or soil is the base on which most 
vegetable substances must live and receive their 
nutriment. It is true, tulips, hyacinths, and other 
succulent bulbs, have sometimes been found and are 
frequently brought into a state of vegetation and 
flowering in water alone, or at least with a very 
small portion of nutriment ; but such plants do not 
during their process of growth obtain their proper 
qualities, nor will they vegetate freely the succeed- 
ing year if planted in their natural soil. 

£< Nearly all vegetables," says the learned 
Chaptal " derive their support from the earth. 
There are however some, the seeds of which being 
deposited upon trees by birds or by the winds, ger- 
minate and grow, appearing to be in the situation de- 
signed for them by nature ; such are the mistletoe, 
the mosses, &c. There are others that float upon 
the water or fasten themselves upon dry rocks, upon 



22 FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



slates, or tiles ; of the last kinds are the fleshy 
plants. As the earth furnishes the greatest number 
of plants, and all those which are of the most im- 
portance to man, its influence upon vegetation is of 
the greatest consequence, and at the same time one 
of the most difficult of which we can treat. 

" Plants are not, like animals, endowed with 
powers of locomotion ; but are always fixed to a 
limited portion of the soil. They depend on the 
small space which they occupy for the supply of 
their wants ; they can place under contribution only 
those portions of the surrounding air, earth, and 
water that come in contact with them ; it is neces- 
sary, then, that they should find immediately around 
them the nutritive principles requisite for their 
growth, and for the exercise of their functions ; it 
is necessary that they should be able to extend their 
roots, in order to draw from the soil its nourishing 
juices ; and to fasten themselves in the earth, so as 
to be secure from being dried by heat or uprooted 
by winds." 

Art. 2. — On the Food of Plants. 

The food of trees and plants is found to be, in 
most cases, either animal or vegetable substance in 
a decaying state ; and is absorbed by their roots 
principally in aqueous solution or water ; plants also 
imbibe some nutriment from the atmospheric air 
by the leaves, which imbibe moisture through their 
pores ; they also imbibe nutriment from the at- 
mosphere of decomposed animal and vegetable mat- 
ter which is carried to them by high winds, &c, 
from high-ways and other places adjacent to them. 



/ 



FOOD AND STIMULANTS. 



23 



In speaking of food of plants of the most essen- 
tial and proper nature, I have never found any that 
answers a better purpose than well rotted manure 
from the stable yard, as horse, cow, or hog manure 
placed in a heap for fermentation with a quantity of 
loam, or peat incorporated therewith ; this compost 
should be w T ell rotted and mixed before it is carried 
on the land. I am well aware that there are many 
kinds of stimulating manures recommended, as bone 
dust, horn, shavings, and other powerful stimulants, 
besides many kinds from minerals, as lime, plasters, 
and the like ; these I cannot pretend to say are not 
in many cases very quick and beneficial in their 
operation, but I am of opinion that the first recom- 
mended kinds, although more steady and moderate in 
their operation, are much the best. The best food 
for trees not in use that I am acquainted with is old 
woollen rags or cloth cut into small pieces and dug 
or ploughed into the soil about the roots of trees ; 
young trees are particularly benefited by this ma- 
nure, as it is one of the best substances I am ac- 
quainted with to cause young trees to throw out 
fibres, and support them by emitting to them a 
gradual moisture of an oily nature : this also serves 
to retain moisture in dry weather and absorb it in 
moist. Many kinds offish are very active and forci- 
ble manures for young trees, but they are not to 
be recommended, as they rather force than invi- 
gorate the nature of the tree. When exhausted, 
trees generally linger if not well supplied in after 
years from such active manures ; blood, night-soil 
arid many other things may be recommended when 
incorporated with loam as manures, but they re- 
quire to be used with caution in order that the vege- 



24 FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



tative principle of the tree may not be forced too 
much. Moderation in the food of trees and the 
vegetable kingdom is quite as much required as in 
the animal, and that kind will be found to be the 
best that acts the most uniform and regular for a 
length of time. 

Art. 3. — On Moisture. 

In speaking of moisture I shall confine the subject 
principally to that which is imbibed by the root in 
the natural location when the tree is growing. This 
is essentially requisite to be known by the planter, 
because different natural locations have different ef- 
fects in the growth and health of fruit trees. The 
Strawberry and Raspberry require a moist loca- 
tion as do the Plum and Quince, whilst the Cherry 
and Apple do better in a moderate dry soil ; now it 
is not pretended that these fruits will not grow on 
the opposite locations ; for the Raspberry and 
Strawberry will grow on dry situations but their 
produce will generally be discouraging. 

When moisture is too abundantly applied to trees 
and plants in hot weather, it often happens that their 
leaves are scalded when the sun acts freely on them, 
this is owing to their leaves being overcharged with 
water ; so that perspiration cannot take place speedy 
enough to throw off the superabundant moisture be- 
fore the rays of the sun scald the leaf. 

Every care should be taken by the planter to let 
off a superabundance of surface water from the 
ground that collects either from heavy rains or melt- 
ing snow. When allowed to remain and saturate 
the soilj the roots of trees are materially injured by 



/ 



FOOD AND STIMULANTS. 



25 



it ; particularly new planted trees, for the wounds 
of trees being very tenacious of wet, generally 
decay where wounds are made, and hence rot or 
mortification from a small part is often extended to a 
magnitude that is a serious injury to the tree. Mois- 
ture should in all cases be considered useful in a 
certain degree, but when applied too bountifully 
is injurious. 

Art. 4. — On Drought. 

The principal injury sustained from drought by 
the planter, is occasioned by its long continuance 
early in the spring of some years. In consequence 
of this early drought, at the period when the young 
fruit is swelling and requires to be nourished 
and invigorated, the fruit fails and drops off. 
This more generally happens on dry soils than 
moist, and hence in dry seasons we find the plum 
and other fruits fail in consequence of too much dry 
weather during the growth of the fruit. 

The only methods to assist fruit trees against 
this is to water, or melch over their roots with long 
manure or other substance that retains the moisture ; 
this method cannot be followed to any extent with 
grown trees, but in young planted trees the melch- 
ing or covering with anything to keep the roots 
moist is often of very essential service. 

The Strawberry is almost the only fruit I am ac- 
quainted with that will pay for watering, and that 
under circumstances where water can be conve- 
niently obtained, as from ar pump being conducted 
through pipes or other conveyance so as to flood 
the beds every day or two when in bloom and setting 
the fruit. This will be of essential service. 



26 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



Art. 5.— On Heat. 

It is very evident that trees require a certain 
heat to grow and mature their fruit and wood in a 
proper state. In cold moist summers, especially 
the latter part, or the fall, fruit trees many times do 
not form and mature their buds and wood in a 
proper state. This often happens in Raspberries, 
the canes or wood of which are kept growing in 
cold moist seasons, so that they do not ripen, 
and the consequence is that they do not fruit 
well the following season. The best method to 
counteract or remedy this is to cut out most of the 
wood, leaving those canes only that are to fruit next 
year ; by this means the wood is more exposed to 
the sun and air, which acts on and ripens it bet- 
ter than when shaded by all the old wood and that 
made the present year. In cold seasons the ripen- 
ing of fruit may be much assisted by thinning out 
part of the superfluous wood and part of the leaves, 
so that it is exposed to sun and air ; in this opera- 
tion moderation is required, for in many cases when 
over done, as in thinning off too many leaves from 
grapes and other fruit, it is scalded by the sudden 
influence of the sun's powerful rays w T hich have be- 
fore been excluded. 

Sun heat should in every case be considered as 
the maturer of wood and the fruit of trees. There- 
fore the different parts of the tree should always be 
moderately exposed to it, but care must always be 
taken in pruning, and thinning that the change is not 
too sudden, which is always injurious. 

As regards the ripening of different kinds of fruit, 



DIFFERENT PARTS OF A TREE. 



27 



there is some difference in the influence of the sun, 
for we find that some kinds, as the Gooseberry, ripen 
best in the shade, and some in the sun ; this must be 
learned by the practitioner by observation of the 
ripening of different kinds in different locations of 
of heat, cold, drought, and moisture, 



CHAPTER II. 

REMARKS ON THE DIFFERENT PARTS OF A TREE, 

Art. 1. — On the Seed, 

The seed contains all the rudiments of a young 
plant in embryo, and commences a state of vegeta- 
tion so soon as a proper heat, air, and moisture is 
present, when, imbedded into a congenial soil, if 
its vegetative properties have not been damaged or 
lost by any accidental causes which might have 
happened. It is seldom seen that seed loses its 
vegetative properties by cold, when a free circula- 
tion of air is present, and it is not saturated by 
moisture. In order to prove this fact I have ex- 
posed many kinds of seed to extreme cold, but I 
have never found them to be injured if in a dry state ; 
but on the contrary, when seed is kept in a warm moist 
situation its vegetative principle is often put into ac- 
tion before its proper season, and the consequence 
is, the seed is materially injured, if not totally de- 
stroyed. Many kinds of seeds covered with a hard 
shell, as stone fruit, keep better and vegetate more 
freely in the spring if they are mixed with earth 



38 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



when taken from the fruit and kept through the win- 
ter in a tub or other vessel until the sowing in the 
spring. This method may be adopted with the 
plum, cherry, and all kinds of hard shelled seeds. 
The kernels or seeds of apples, pears, and most 
pomiferous fruits may be taken from the pulp when 
ripe and kept in sand through the winter. In this 
state they will keep regularly moist and their vege- 
tative principle in a more vigorous state, and from < 
decaying, although moisture is injurious to seed in a 
dormant state; it may be applied to such seed as is 
covered with a hard shell during its dormant state, 
as the peach stone, cherry, and the like. In this 
case moisture applied in a moderate manner serves 
to assist in the gradual decay of the coat or cover- 
ing, which is the shell ; this is designed by nature to 
protect the kernel or seed during winter from wet 
and other detrimental causes injuring it before vege- 
tation can take place ; but at the same time it is im- 
possible that the kernel or seed can vegetate until 
the covering is decayed, which must be done by 
the action of heat and moisture to decompose the 
shell, previous to the seed's vegetating ; therefore 
the utility of preparing seeds of this kind previous to 
planting is at once apparent. 

All kinds of seeds require a proper heat and 
moisture to cause them to vegetate freely ; hence 
tropical seeds, as the cucumber, require 60° of heat 
to cause them to vegetate, whilst those of the tem- 
perate zone grow freely in the moderate heat of 40° 
or 45°, this should be borne in mind by the cultiva- 
tor, in order that seeds may be sown at the 
season when vegetation will take place to the best 
advantage. 



DIFFRENT PARTS OF A TREE . 29 



Art. 2. — On the Root. 

The roots of trees are the principal channels by 
which the food is extracted from the soil and con- 
veyed to every part of the tree. And hence it 
is very evident that they should be placed in a soil 
that contains nutriment, and of a consistence adapted 
to their nature which will be found to be different 
in different kinds. The fibrous roots being the 
mouths or those parts which imbibe the nutriment of 
the tree, it should therefore be the object of the 
cultivator to use every means" in cultivating the soil 
about tfee-tese of young trees, in a manner to en- 
courage the growth of roots as much as possible. 
It is a fact I believe to be but little known, that in 
many cases roots of trees are much injured in culti- 
vating around them by deep plonghings, and work- 
ing with a spade ; in this working about trees the 
roots are often cut off, or bruised in a manner very 
injurious to them. In this way the bark is often bruised 
so that the roots are wounded for several years, 
and in a state of incipient decay, and hence the tree 
makes a tardy and weakly growth. Trees should 
be worked about the roots with a pronged fork or 
instrument, that will not cut or injure them. It 
will be needless here to say that the soil about trees 
should be well manured and worked, in order that 
they may knit and grow freely into the soil. 

In all cases young trees should be grow T n in such 
a soil and situation, that the roots may extend 
themselves freely when young ; and here I must 
beg leave a little to deviate from the old proverbial 
phrase, u as the branches are inclined so the tree is 



30 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



formed." I think it is more proper to say, to 
" as the roots are encouraged or inclined, so the 
tree is formed." In planting young trees care should 
be taken that the soil put about their roots is of a 
free mellow nature that adheres to the fibres freely ; 
but not in a clammy state like paste or mortar ; 
which instead of giving a base for them to strike 
into and retain the food and nutriment, chills them 
into a torpid state, saturates the soil, and final- 
ly rots the tender fibres, then the larger part, and 
so on until the entire roots decay, and then the 
tree. When trees are thus going into decay their 
leaves turn yellow, are feeble, the wood slender 
and soft and affected by almost every change of 
weather when in a growing state. 

I must here caution the young planter against the 
very improper manner of planting trees with any 
parts of their roots injured, which rarely heal, but 
often, mortify, mould and rot others to the great de- 
triment of the tree. 

It is better at once to cut off any decayed part 
cleanly, than to venture to put it into a soil and 
situation where the eye has not the power to see the 
injury the tree is sustaining from a decayed part, as 
that of a branch. 

Art. S.— On the Leaf. 

The leaves of plants being the principal organs 
of respiration, and contributing to their growth by 
their power of absorption, are of the greatest impor- 
tance in this operation. The surrounding air 
whether internal or external being absorbed by their 
agency, requires to be of a pure and wholesome na- 



DIFFERENT PARTS OF A TREE, 



31 



ture, in order to keep them in a healthy, vigorous 
state. 

When too much heat and moisture are applied to 
a tree growing in a confined or shaded situation they 
are imbibed by the leaf, and the consequence is that 
the plant is elongated without its proper qualities ; 
the leaves assume a feeble appearance, and are often 
totally destroyed when the sun and air act on 
them ; hence when young plants (as in seedling 
beds in the nursery) are so confined that they can- 
not expand their leaves so as to receive a due pro- 
portion of sun and air, it is' not to be expected 
that they will obtain a sufficient strength and 
vigor. 

It is proper in seedling beds to thin out the 
young plants so soon as the leaves appear on the 
plant, to such a distance apart, that they may have free 
access to the sun, air, and other stimulants. This 
fact is apparent to any careful observer who 
will notice a quantity of seedling trees growing in 
their natural state in woods or other places ; in this 
situation when the young plants are grown too thick- 
ly together, many naturally die for the want of air, 
and the remainder in the succeeding year make a 
healthy growth because they can then obtain a due 
share of air and other stimulants. Now as the soil 
at the roots of these trees is in most cases quite 
sufficient to feed them, it is evident that suffocation 
or want of air is the cause of the plants dying ; 
therefore it is plain that the leaves are of great 
importance to trees and plants. 

The leaves of trees, we are informed by botanists, 
are analogous to the lungs of animals ; therefore 



32 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



they are of the greatest importance in their opera- 
tion, besides being designed by nature as a protect- 
ing screen to the young shoots and fruit ; being of 
such importance then, it is highly requisite that every 
attention should be paid to the keeping of leaves 
clean from any insects, disease or other detrimental 
causes that shall either weaken or retard their growth, 
particularly in their infant state, for at that stage of 
their growth they are naturally thin and tender, and 
hence whatever attacks them proves more injurious 
than when they are in a more mature state. Whilst 
on the subject of the leaf, it will be proper here to 
say a few words on the too severe and injudicious 
manner of taking many leaves from grape vines and 
trees when in a state of vegetation ; this when done 
to an extreme, is certainly an act of violence inflicted 
on nature, by the plants being deprived of their most 
useful organs when they are the most needed to sup- 
port vegetation ; besides, the young branches and 
fruit are hastily exposed to the influence of the 
sun in a manner that is very injurious to them. 

The cultivator should always consider leaves of 
of trees as the most essential organs, and requiring 
every attention to be kept in good order for the well 
being of the tree. 

Art. 4.— On the Bad. 

The buds of trees are termed by botanists the Hy- 
bernacula or winter quarters of plants ; they are form- 
ed in the summer, and properly fed and nourish- 
ed preparatory to the winter by the descent of sap 
in the fall. 

Buds of trees are of three kinds, namely, those 



DIFFERENT 



PARTS OF A TREE. 



33 



which contain the blossom in embryo, as in the ap- 
ple and cherry ; and those in the same kinds of fruit 
trees, denominated the wood bud, which are intend- 
ed to give leaves and branches the ensuing spring ; 
and thirdly, those kinds which contain the young 
wood and flowers under the same cover, as in the 
grape, and most kinds of running vines. These 
buds are all carefully protected by nature with a 
hard scaly cover to shield them from the winter's 
severity; however, in many 'cases the blossom buds, 
as in the peach, are winter killed in the Northern 
States, but it rarely happens that the wood bud is 
affected unless the whole branch is injured. 

The maturation of buds, is of great importance, 
because the succeeding crop of fruit in the ensuing 
season depends much on the fruit buds being formed 
sound and plump, particularly in the grape and 
peach, for if the buds are not well formed in the 
fall, it is an almost certain cause of failure of a crop 
of fruit in the next spring. 

There can be no general rule, so far as I know, 
laid down for the maturing and forming of fruit 
buds. The best thing to be done is to be careful 
and keep up as regular a flow of sap as possible 
during the growth of the young wood, for it must 
be recollected that the feeding of the bud is essen- 
tially necessary at this time, in order that it have its 
proper quality, which can only be obtained from 
the soil and atmosphere ; hence we find that many 
young trees and those which are in a feeble state, in 
dry seasons seldom form their fruit buds so as to 
blossom freely, or strong enough to bear fruit the 
ensuing season. Trees in a growing state should 
also be kept clean of insects, which enfeeble the bud, 
3 



34 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



for every thing should be done to form it in a vig- 
orous state. 

Whilst I am on the subject of buds it will be 
well to say a few words on inoculating trees, 
by inserting those from one to another under the 
bark or outer covering. To succeed in this opera- 
tion, a nicety is required in the choice of the part 
to be inoculated and the selection and management 

o 

oftae hud ; the time that this operation can be 
done to the best purpose is when the young wood is 
so ripened, that the bud is plump, and the sap of 
the stock is flowing briskly ; for, unless a speedy 
and free union is effected between the bark of the 
bud and the alburnum of the stock, a failure must 
certainly happen in a short time. If buds are in- 
serted early into very luxuriant trees it often hap- 
pens that they make young wood in the fall to the in- 
jury of the process ; this happens owing to a bud of 
a weaker kind of tree being inserted into a stronger, 
which feeds it with a superabundant flow of sap, and 
hence causes vegetation at an improper season. 

Art. 5. — On the Flower or Blossom. 

Some attention should be paid by the cultivator 
to the flowers of fruit trees ; because from them 
comes the fruit, and unless the blossoms are strong 
and perfect, the fruit will be imperfect ; for we of- 
ten see in stone fruit for instance, that it is destitute 
of the stone, which is owing to the flower setting 
its fruit without its organs of generation being per- 
fected by the farina ; in this case it is destitute of 
its proper qualities and flavor. It is quite requisite 
that the flower buds of trees should be well matured 
in the fall in order that they form all the different 



DIFFERENT 



PARTS 



OF A TREE . 



35 



parts ot fructification, in a healthy and proper state. 
In many cases I have seen peach trees blossom 
in the spring destitute of the organs of fructification, 
and hence the flowers have dropped off without 
forming fruit. This has been owing to a poverty 
either by drought, want of air, or feebleness at the 
time of forming the buds, and hence the failure. The 
blossoms of fruit are also often injured in the time 
of flowering by frost which settles on the tender 
parts ; when the sun shines strongly on them it 
scalds the blossom so that the flower drops 
off. This is often seen in the peach and grape in 
seasons when late frosts happen; and in such sea- 
sons it is rarely that crops of fruit are abundant. 

inds, much wet, or sudden changes from heat to 
cold, are injurious to the blossoms of fruit trees. 

Blossoms of fruit generally set best when the 
heat, moisture and an- are uniform and corresponding 
to the natural properties of the tree ; anything that 
is very changeable generally retards its progress. 

Tender kinds of fruit, as the peach and grape, 
may be protected, by covering the trees when in 
bloom with thin grass-cloth, netting, or other woven 
thin substance that will admit the sun and air 
through the meshes ; this slight covering, although 
not sufficient to guard off severe frost cr storms, is 
of th e greatest importance in moderate cases, for the 
meshes attract slight hoary frost which settles on it. 
and besides it acts as a screen from the sun when 
it shines strongly on the tree after frosts. 

To be explicit on the subject, it is important in 
all cases that the blossom should be vigorous, and 
have everything by nature to set it strongly^ in order 
to obtain a good produce. 



36 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



Art. 6. — On the Fruit. 

After what has been said of the buds and flow- 
ers of trees, it will be proper to say something on 
fruit, which bears the same affinity as regards being 
supported in a healthy state from the tree, which 
should be in good health or the fruit will be of an 
inferior quality. In many cases we find trees to 
flower freely and set their fruit, which afterwards 
drops from the tree in different stages, owing to 
many causes inimical to it. Fruit of tender kinds is 
as often lost in its infant state by frost, as when in 
flower ; and in most instances it may protected in the 
same manner. A natural weakness in the tree is 
sometimes the cause of fruit dropping from it ; 
another cause is its being too luxuriant, as in the 
case of young trees, which often make their shoots 
so luxuriant as to impoverish the young fruit. In this 
case it is evident that to counteract either difficulty, 
the tree should by culture and management be kept 
in a state that shall cause it to have a uniform 
growth and health neither too weak or too luxuriant ; 
this can be effected by the different processes re- 
commended to be practised hereafter, as pruning, 
manuring and working the soil. The thinning of 
fruit is also essentially necessary, in order that when 
it is too thick it may be so thinned as to grow to 
and have its proper size and quality ; for an expla- 
nation of this I refer the reader to its proper head. 

Many crops of fruit are lost when in a state of 
growth by the drought, especially on dry soils, 
which when deprived of moisture afford no nutri- 
ment to the tree. In this case fruit often forms it- 
self into a monstrous habit ; thus the plum swells to 



DIFFERENT PARTS OF A TREE. 37 

a large hollow white pulp without either its proper 
substance or quality, and drops from the tree a dis- 
eased crude substance. Cherries, plums and most 
kinds of stone fruit often drop from the tree while 
forming their stones, when the season is dry or 
unfavorable, and the apple and pear form into an ill- 
formed gnarly fruit during the drought. Too much 
exposure to the sun affects some fruit, as the 
raspberry ; while others, as the grape, by being too 
much shaded, are prevented from obtaining their 
wonted qualities. In fact the orchardist must en- 
deavor to make himself familiar, by practical obser- 
vations, with the different causes that operate either 
favorably or injuriously to fruit. Such observations 
are worth all the theory that can be penned by the 
most scientific writers on the subject. 



PART SECOND. 

MANAGEMENT OF THE NURSERY. 



CHAPTER I. 

ON LAYING OUT THE NURSERY. 

Art. 1. — On the Selection of the Ground. 

Under the head of Nursery I shall take into con- 
sideration the culture of fruit trees in their infant 
state, and in order to condense the subject, I shall 
confine it strictly, to a piece of ground adapted for 
raising young fruit trees in a healthy vigorous state 
for replanting in the Fruit Garden or Orchard. 

The selecting a piece of ground for a nursery is 
of more importance than is generally considered, 
because, young trees should always be well grown, 
which is to say, in a healthy and symmetrical man- 
ner, and hence the name Nursery.— Whilst on this 
part of my subject, I cannot refrain from making 
some remarks on the very improper modes often 
adopted in raising young fruit trees, especially in 
country places. Many persons who have land to 
spare, think that to appropriate a spot to the 
grclwth of young trees, and merely to plant, inocu- 
late, &c, is all that is needful to produce good 



THE NURSERY. 



39 



plants ; hence trees are planted out in their infant 
state, and allowed to take their chance with weeds, 
grass, and the like incumbrances, that accumulate 
and impoverish them, and the consequence is, that 
they are dwarfed into. a meagre growth when young, 
and are in a measure deterred from ever attaining a 
full and vigorous growth and habit. 

Unless trees can be properly grown and well at- 
tended to, a nursery never will answer either for 
profit, or as a plantation from tvhich it is intended to 
transplant into a fruit garden or orchard. 

In selecting a nursery, the ground should be chosen 
in a sheltered situation, protected from the north and 
northwest winds. Shelter indeed is one of the 
principal objects to be regarded, for in most cases, 
young trees have great resemblance to young chil- 
dren, or anything in its infant state in the animal 
kingdom ; they require a degree of warmth and shel- 
ter to assist their formation into a thrifty habit : in- 
deed in many cases, trees although not possessing 
motion or sensible qualities, are very similar to ani- 
mals, for we find it to be the case in the vegetable 
kingdom, in trees more especially, that the young are 
fostered under the influence and protection of their 
parent, which acts as shelter and protection to its 
offspring for awhile, and whilst the parent is going 
into an incipient decay the offspring is gaining vigor 
and magnitude, and finally like the Phoenix is foster- 
ed, fed, and formed from the remains of its parent. 

But to return to my subject ; the ground should be 
of a naturally rich soil, approaching to a mellow 
loam, w'ith rich mellow subsoil, that will retain mois- 
ture in a moderate degree, bnt not in such a manner 



40 FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



as to saturate the surface soil with moisture, which 
will chill and destroy the roots of the young trees ; 
a part of the nursery may be on a dry location to 
grow such trees as are natural to a dry soil, as the 
cherry, peach, &c. The location should be such 
that the surface water may run off after snow or 
heavy showers, that it may not too much saturate the 
ground', nor should it be so situated that drought af- 
fects the ground severely, two extremes that often hap- 
pen, and are very injurious to the growth and health 
of trees. 

Art. 2. — On preparing and laying out the Ground. 

The preparation of the ground selected for the 
nursery, should be done in the best possible man- 
ner, by clearing it of any weeds, manuring and 
ploughing it deep ; and every thing that applies to 
good culture, should be done to bring it into a right 
state previous to planting. Let it be remembered, 
that if weeds are once allowed to grow rank among 
young trees, they not only impoverish them and the 
ground, but it is very difficult to exterminate them 
therefrom. 

It is a good method to break up the ground one 
year previous to planting, and manure all over and 
cultivate a crop of potatoes, which will clean and 
bring it into excellent order. 

Laying out the Nursery, is simply to divide the 
ground into squares appropriate to the size. It 
should be laid out in a regular and systematic or- 
der, so that an easy access can be had to any trees 
when wanted, without confusion. The most gen- 
eral and best plan of laying out the nursery, is to 



PROPAGATION OF TREES. 



41 



lay out a border of twelve or fifteen feet around it, 
and a walk next to it of six or eight feet, and if the 
nursery is large, a broad walk of twelve or fifteen 
feet may be made, up the central part, for the ac- 
commodation of a cart or wagon to take away or 
bring any trees, soil or other things belonging to it 
in the most convenient manner. 



CHAPTER II. 

ON THE INCREASE OR PROPAGATION OF TREES. 

Art. 1. — Increase by Seed. 

It should be a general rule to propagate many 
kind of the trees by seed, although suckers are in 
many cases substituted for it ; the pear, the apple, 
the plum and cherry, are the principal families of 
eatable fruits, and are extensively cultivated as a 
matter of profit, and as these are of such import- 
ance, it is quite clear that the best possible manner 
of growing trees should be resorted to, in order to 
give the cultivator a due return for money and 
labor expended. 

The greatest error in cultivating the above named 
varieties of trees from suckers is, that they are 
prone to throw out suckers from the roots of the pa- 
rent tree which acts as a nurse for awhile, to a nu- 
merous progeny of young offsprings, which in time 
draw nutriment from the surrounding earth, and im- 
poverish the parent. If these suckers are cut off 
from their parent roots, the number is trebled yearly 



42 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



and the oftener they are cut off, the more numer- 
ous they grow. Seedling trees seldom throw out 
suckers from their roots, and hence it is essential to 
grow trees by seed in order to evade a perpetual 
trouble, besides having most generally better crops 
of fruit. 

The method of raising young seedlings, is to pre- 
pare a piece of ground by digging and manuring it 
well either in the fall or the spring, but the spring is 
generally considered the best. Having the grounds 
prepared, the seed may then be sown either in four 
feet beds with two foot alleys, or in drills of about six 
inches wide -and a foot between. The latter I 
w 7 ould recommend, for by this method the young 
plants will have a better chance to obtain the sun and 
air, and grow more stout and bushy, than when 
grown in a thick bed of four feet w ? ide. The seed 
may be sown in depth according to the size. Such 
as apple, pear, and the small kinds of seeds may be 
sown very shallow, and lightly covered by sifting 
over it some fine rotten leaf mould, or other light 
earth, with a portion of decomposed vegetable mat- 
ter incorporated in it. Peaches, plums, nuts and 
large hard shelled seeds will require to be sown 
deeper in proportion. Such seed should be pre- 
viously prepared by mixing it with earth in the fall, 
and keeping it in tubs or boxes during the winter, 
in order to soften the shells. Many kinds of berries, 
as mountain-ash, hawthorn, and the like, may be 
treated in the same manner. 

If the fall is the most convenient time for doing 
this business, there is no objection to doing it in a 
proper manner, and so much of the nursery busi- 



PROPAGATION OF TREES. 



43 



ness of the spring will be forwarded ; when seed is 
sown in the fall, it should be on a piece of ground 
where it is not subject to be inundated or covered 
with water, which rots the seed in the ground, and is 
an almost sure cause of failure ; therefore the choice 
of ground is of great importance. 

Art. 2. — Inertia e by Cuttings, 

There are many kinds of fruits which are increas- 
ed by cuttings, as the grape, the currant, the goose- 
berry, &c. The manner of doing this is, to pre- 
pare a piece of rich mellow ground by spread- 
ing over it a quantity of well rotted manure 
and digging it neatly with a plate spade ; this being 
done, the cuttings are then to be prepared by cut- 
ting them in length of about a foot, with a sharp 
knife ; the ground being prepared, the cuttings may 
be inserted, by placing a garden line and pressing 
them down about halfway into the ground by the 
side of it; when one row is completed, the ground is 
to be neatly raked by the side of it, and the line re- 
moved to the intended distance between the rows, 
when the next row may be planted in the same man- 
ner, and so continue until the whole is completed. 

The selection of cuttings for this purpose, 
is of some importance, as healthy or meagre plants 
will be made according to the choice. The cutting 
should be chosen from the young wood of last sum- 
mer's growth, and that which is strong, straight, and 
healthy. It should be, if possible, taken from a 
part of the tree, where it has been well exposed, so 
that it is well ripened ; if taken from the centre of the 



44 FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



tree, where the shoots are thick, they are oftentimes 
soft and succulent, and hence improper. 

The choice of ground for this purpose, is very 
important : it should, if possible, be chosen in a 
shady place, where the sun and air can have free 
influence ; the soil should be of a rich light loamy 
nature, with a portion of sand, in order that the 
cuttings may callous, and root more freely. 

Art. 3.— Increase by Layers. 

Many kinds of fruit trees, as the currant, the 
gooseberry, grape, &c, are increased from their 
parent, by layers ; this business is generally perform- 
ed in the spring, although, in some cases, the fall is 
preferred, in order to forward the business in the 
spring. However, the spring is the most to be 
preferred, as at that time the layers strike root much 
more freely ; besides, the business can be done much 
more expeditiously. 

The most general method of performing this busi- 
ness, is to prepare the earth around the parent plant 
by digging and well working the ground ; this done, 
the layers are to be chosen of young slender shoots, 
and if of one year's growth the better, but if of 
thrifty growth, two or three years' growth will do. 
Having selected out the intended layers, bend them 
gently down to the earth's surface in an opposite di- 
rection from the part in the plant they grow in ; this 
done, make an incision with a sharp knife for the 
part that they may throw out roots. 

The incision or cut is made by placing the heel 
of the knife to a bud, (at a distance where the shoot 
can be conveniently laid in the ground,) cutting the 



PROPAGATION OF TREES. 



45 



shoot about half way through, and bringing the blade 
upwards about an inch, with a clear cut, so as to 
form a tongue to the part laid in the ground, to 
send out roots. This done, press a spade six or 
ei-ht inches in the ground, into which, insert the layer 
with the cut part or tongue downwards, and close 
over the part with earth, pressing it down with the 
heel, and if the shoot is stiff, it may be secured in 
its place, by placing over it a pegged stick and press- 
ing it deeply in the ground. When the layers are 
all laid, the ground may be regularly placed about 
them, and neatly raked or dressed off. 

When many plants are desired to be thus raised, 
I recommend that a piece of ground for the desired 
kinds be purposely selected, and stools planted about 
three or four feet apart. By this mode a regular 
succession of layers is obtained every spring from 
the last year's wood, which is thrown up from the 
crown or centre of the stool. 

I would particularly recommend this mode to be 
adopted for the Isabella grape vine, by which much 
finer plants are obtained than by cuttings or any 
other method in one year. 

Art. 4. — Increase by Inoculation. 

The cherry, plum, pear, and many other kinds of 
fruit trees, are increased by budding or inoculating. 
In order to the success of this method the plants to 
be operated upon should be grown and in a thrifty 
state when worked, else little reward may be ex- 
pected for the trouble. When it is recollected 
that the bud inserted, is to be united to the sap in 



46 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION, 



the shoot, it must be at once evident, that Ft 
should be in the very best state in order to form an 
union ; to the contrary of this, we often see trees 
operated upon, that are old and dried up, or have 
no sap to feed the inserted bud ; the success of such 
operations require no inquiry or consideration fur- 
ther than that it is certain that the result will be use- 
less, and the trees where the incisions are made, 
will be scarified and disfigured. Therefore, when 
budding is intended to be done, the principal ob- 
ject should be to choose young healthy wood, full 
of sap. 

The mode of Inoculation.— -Having the trees of 
the above healthy description, and the proper sea- 
son being at hand, the business may be done in the 
following manner : at the proper season, when the 
plants to be inoculated are in a right condition, pre- 
pare for the operation by collecting healthy shoots 
of the summer's growth, of such kinds as are inten- 
ded to be increased. When the shoots are taken 
from the trees, they are to be divested of their 
leaves, leaving a part of the forestalls to the length 
of half an inch ; they are then to be kept damp un- 
til they are inserted, which should be as soon as 
possible after being separated from the trees. 

There are many ways of inserting buds, but I 
shall confine myself to the most general, and, I be- 
lieve most successful method, which is performed 
by making an incision in the tree intended to be in- 
oculated, in this form, T, by first cutting through 
the rind, on the top, in a transverse manner, holding 
the knife between the fore finger and thumb : the 
bottom incision is made by drawing the point of the 
knife downward an inch ; the thin end of the haft is 



PROPAGATION OF TREES, 



47 



then to be applied to the top of the incision in order 
to part the rind from the wood, which is done by 
gently lifting the top and running the end of the haft 
downward on each side to the end of the incision. 
The incision being made for the reception of the 
bud, the next thing to be dene is to prepare the 
bud, by placing the scion in the left hand, between 
the fore finger and thumb, with the top end next to 
the thumb. The knife must then be taken in the 
right hand, and its heel placed half an inch below 
the bud intended to be taken off ; it is then to be 
carefully drawn upwards half an inch above the bud, 
cutting it out with about half the wood and bark. 
This being done, the part is to be placed between 
the thumb and fore finger of the left hand, and the 
rind gently pressed back with the edge of the knife, 
when the wood is to be pinched between the thumb 
and knife and divided from the rind with the bud, 
which is to be inserted neatly in the incision by 
pressing it gently down between the bark and the 
wood of the tree, and bound with bass or other 
string, in a neat manner, beginning first at the bottom 
of the incision, and then continuing it to the top over 
and above where the cut is made. 



Art. 5. — Increase bij Grafting-. 

The object of grafting is to prolong any desired 
fine quality of fruit by uniting it to a healthy, vigor- 
ous kind, which should generally be such as is 
grown from seed. In this manner fine kinds of the 
apple, pear, cherry and plum are prolonged through 
many generations, which could not be done by seed, 
for seed from the very best kinds generally returns 



48 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



to varieties similar to the parent crab-apple. The 
methods of grafting are numerous, but there are two 
only generally followed, namely, the cleft-graft, and 
the whip-graft. The former is principally practised 
on large trees, and indeed in the nursery department 
in this country ; but the latter is universally practised 
in the nurseries of Great Britain and other European 
countries. 

The scions selected for grafting are those of the 
last year's growth from the fruiting wood. Suckers 
from the central part are by no means to be chosen 
if they can be avoided. The cuttings should be 
taken from the tree about the beginning of March 
and tied in bundles, and placed into the earth in a 
sunny and sheltered situation. The time of grafting 
depends on the nature of the season, but general- 
ly the beginning of April is a good time. When the 
sap beginsto flow freely is the best period, which, 
can be easily ascertained. 

Cleft-grafting. — Having the scions prepared as 
before directed, a quantity of grafting-clay, compo- 
sition, or other proper covering may be prepared 
previous to performing the work. The grafting- 
clay is prepared by collecting a quantity of stiff clay, 
and moistening it with water to the consistence of 
stiff mortar ; into this a quantity of short cut horse 
hair, moss, horse dropping, or other substance may 
be mixed to thread it together in a manner that it will 
act as a plaster, not to be easily removed from the 
tree by rain, sun, or other cause when once put on. 
This composition, if well made, is the best, and will 
be found to answer for any kind of grafting. 

There are many other kinds of composition made 
for the purpose of covering grafts, of which bees- 



PROPAGATION OF TREES. 



49 



wax is the principal ; in some instances it is the only 
thing used, as on small orange trees and those plants 
that are cleft-grafted, and united in a moist heat. 
It is used by melting and putting it thinly over the 
wound with a brush, or even the finger. A very 
good composition is made by mixing a portion of 
bees-wax, pitch and glue, with a little hog's lard, and 
well boiling it together in an earthen pipkin. When 
used, it is laid in with a brush hot, but not so as to 
scald the bark. 

In the act of grafting, fix on a clean part of the 
stock or branch to be worked, sawing off the 
branch in a clean manner, then paring the w T ound 
with a sharp knife, being careful not to bruise the 
outer bark : this done, prepare to make a cleft by 
placing a straight stiff bladed knife directly across 
the centre of the cut, and with a mallet or other tool 
cleave the crown two or three inches. Having 
made the cleft, open it by driving down the centre 
a narrow wedge of iron far enough to open the sides 
sufficient to receive the grafts, which are prepared by 
cutting them in lengths about six and eight inches 
long — cutting the bottom ends downwards, on each 
side, in the form of a wedge, and so that it fits neatly 
in the cleft, into which it is to be gently pressed 
downwards, being careful that the barks of the graft 
and the stock precisely meet. The cleft part is 
now to be covered in such a manner that neither sun 
nor air can have access to the parts of the graft and 
stock to prevent their speedily uniting. The clay 
is put on with the hands and closely united to the 
bark by pressure. When neatly done, it should 
have the appearance of an egg, and should let off the 
water freely that may settle on it. 

4 



50 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



Whip-grafting is generally performed on small 
nursery stocks, and although not generally practised 
in this country, I think it a mode highly commenda- 
ble for the plum and cherry, grafts of which general- 
ly do well on small stocks. 

The method of performing whip-grafting is by 
cutting off the stock at the place selected, in a clean 
sloping manner ; then, with a sharp budding knife, 
from the smooth part next to the lowest part of the 
cut, shave off the bark and wood about two inches 
long, beginning at the bottom by drawing the heel of 
the knife gently in the bark and gradually cutting 
deeper in the wood until the blade is drawn out at 
the top. The graft is prepared by cutting it in a 
sloping manner in a reverse position, so that when 
placed on the cut of the stock it forms a neat splice. 
Some gardeners recommend cutting a thin tongue in 
the graft upwards, and in the stock downwards ; 
these two tongues are united into the stock and the 
graft by pressing the latter downwards into the for- 
mer ; when the union is effected the outer bark of the 
graft and stock will precisely meet, and the splice in 
every way exactly fits ; this indeed is the grand art 
in performing the operation. When the graft is set, 
it is to be bound with bass-string, beginning at the 
bottom and winding it upwards in a gradual manner, 
When the graft is bandaged, it is to be covered with 
clay or other composition in the same manner as 
directed for the cleft-graft. 



PROPAGATION OF TREES. 



51 



Art. 6. —Inarching. 

Although inarching more properly belongs to the 
green-house than the fruit department, it will be 
necessary to say a few words on the subject in this 
place. 

The object of inarching is to form a safe and 
speedy union of any choice variety of hard wooded 
plants or trees on to a wilding or stock of the same 
genus or species ; and the practice is generally 
adapted to those kinds that do not speedily unite 
by engrafting ; this is greatly facilitated by inarching, 
as the parts are always united, and a continued flow 
of sap almost always ensures a certain union! 

The practice of inarching, is simply done by 
planting or placing a number of the stocks to be 
w 7 orked around the tree to be worked from, in such 
a manner that the branches can be easily united to- 
gether, 

The operation is done, in the spring, about the 
same time as grafting — when the sap begins to rise 
in the tree is a proper time. The work is done by 
bending a shoot from the tree intended to be worked 
to the stock, where it is to be united in the follow- 
ing manner. Place the part of the shoot to the 
stock, then with a sharp knife pare off part of the 
branch and stock so as to make a neat splice in pre- 
cisely the same manner as the whip-graft ; the part 
united is then to be bandaged and covered as the 
graft, and in every way managed in the same man- 
ner. 



52 FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION, 



CHAPTER III. 

ON THE MANAGEMENT OF YOUNG PLANTS. 

Art. 1.— Seedlings. 

There is some care and attention required to 
grow seedlings in a strong and healthy state the first 
year, which is of great importance to their after 
growth ; for when seedlings are not well grown the 
first year, they are often stunted into a meagre 
growth that prevents them from making any progress 
the following year. 

When the young plants begin to break the ground 
and make their appearance, any heavy lumps of dirt, 
stones or other substances that impede their growth 
may be taken away. If the weather is very dry at 
this time, the plants may have a good soaking of 
water given to them two or three times of an even- 
ing. When the plants have two or three leaves, 
the beds may be thinned by pulling out those in 
clusters, and leaving them as regular as possible, 
an inch or two apart — being careful always to leave 
the centre part of the bed the thinnest, as it must be 
recollected that the plants in the middle do not have 
the chance to obtain so much air as the outside. 
As the young plants advance in growth, the beds 
should be regularly looked over, and divested of any 
weeds, filth, or anything that may retard their growth, 
and every thing should be done to encourage a 
healthy growth during the summer. 

In the fall, if the plants are to remain in the seed 
bed for another year's growth, before they are planted 



MANAGEMENT OF YOUNG PLANTS. 53 



into nursery rows, (which is much the best method,) 
they may be protected as directed under the head 
of u fall management in the nursery," and so during 
the winter ; and in the spring they may be prepared 
for a summer's growth. 

The methods of management of seedling trees, like 
other processes in horticulture, are various. I shall 
describe that which from practice and observation 
appears to me to be the best, and leave the proof of 
its correctness to the inquiring practitioner. 

The two principal objects to be kept in view in 
the growth of seedlings the second year is, to cause 
them to form a number of branching fibrous roots 
and to enlarge in the main stem or stock a little 
above the ground, where engrafting is to take place 
when planted into nursery rows. These two essen- 
tial points are often not only disregarded but oppos- 
ed by allowing seedlings to grow , thickly together 
the second year without any restraint or management, 
and the consequence is, that they grow into long 
slender stems without acquiring bulk and substance 
at tJhe proper place, the base of the stem ; the top is 
superabundant, and the roots are contracted to mere- 
ly a tap root, which running into the subsoil forms 
fibres where they must be severed from the plant 
when removed. 

The management I recommend for seedlings the 
the second year is, to look over the bed and thin 
out the plants to three inches apart, leaving the most 
healthy plants in the bed. This done take a sharp 
plate spade, and placing it in the ground six or eight 
inches from the outside of the rows, press it under 
them five or six inches ; then press it underneath 
the plants to the centre of the bed in such a manner 



54 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



as to cut asunder the tap roots of the plants ; pro- 
ceed to manage the other side in the same manner. 
By cutting asunder the taproots, the plants immedi- 
ately form side or lateral roots near the surface, 
with fibres. The luxuriant shoot that would be made 
if the tap root were allowed to remain is retarded, 
and the stock swells in bulk at the base according 
as the branching roots are formed, and in the follow- 
ing spring hy this method a plant is obtained having 
plenty of fibrous roots and a stout stem. 

The young plants that are taken from the seedling 
bed may be planted thickly in a row in a rich soil 
to form themselves into good plants for transplanting 
the ensuing spring. 

Art. 2. — On the Management of Cuttings. 

Great care should be taken of cuttings in the 
Nursery, as grape, gooseberry, &c. ; they should 
be kept perfectly clear of weeds, that they may 
not overgrow and impoverish them ; this can be 
effected by hoeing, raking and dressing the ground. 
Care should also be taken that the earth is not too 
loose about them, so as to let the drought into them, 
which would deter their taking root ; if the weather 
proves very dry about the time they begin to grow, 
and water is convenient, the rooting will be much 
facilitated, by giving them a good watering two or 
three times early in the spring. Or it is a good 
method to melch over the ground between the rows 
with short litter, or if moss can be obtained, it will 
answer an excellent purpose to help to retain the 
moisture. If neither of these can be obtained, the 
ground should often be hoed between the rows, in 



MANAGEMENT OF YOUNG PLANTS. 55 



order to attract the moisture from the atmospheric 
air. In the fall it is a good method to strew some 
short manure or rotten leaf mould on the ground 
near the stems of the cuttings, in order to guard 
them from the frost, which often draws them from 
the ground. 

The second year the young plants may be pruned, 
by thinning out the tops or heading in the young 
shoots to an eye, leaving three or four eyes on each 
plant, as the gooseberry, currant, and the like shrub- 
by dwarf growing fruit trees which form compactor 
and handsomer trees by being "headed down in this 
manner. If the plants are weakly, some good rot- 
ten manure dug in between the rows, will greatly 
facilitate their growth the second year. When the 
plants are of a sufficient size, they may be planted 
out as other trees from the nursery, into the depart- 
ment assigned them for fruiting. 

Art. 3. — On the Management of Layers. 

The principal management requisite for layers af- 
ter they are put down, is to keep them regularly 
moist during the growing season, that they may 
throw out roots from the incisions made in a freer 
manner early in the spring. In dry seasons this is 
much facilitated by covering the ground all over 
(where the layers are inserted) with short manure, 
or a better substitute is a quantity of long moss 
which can be obtained from the woods ; this is an 
essential point in nursery business, little attended 
to, although of great importance. Any person 
must be aware, that plants, in the act of throw- 
ing out young roots, should have every encourage- 



55 



FRFIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



ment to forward the progress, for it is, in most cases, 
taking the young from the parent before it has suf- 
cient strength to support itself in a vigorous state 
that causes failure ; therefore, anything that can be 
done to strengthen it, is essentially necessary. 

In the month of August, when the layers are well 
rooted, which can be ascertained by examining 
them where the incision is made, they may be cut 
from the parent plant, by cutting asunder the part 
between the parent and the part layered in the ground ; 
this, I consider of high importance, as the layer 
will have time to be fully established in the ground 
on its own bottom, before the fall, and be indepen- 
dent of its parent. But care must be taken not to 
cut the layer from the parent before it is well rooted, 
especially in dry weather, for by so doing, often- 
times the young plants are totally lost. A judicious 
cultivator will be able to determine on this part by 
examining the layers. 

In the spring, the layers may be taken from their 
parent, and planted out either in nursery rows, or 
in the place designed for their final fruiting. Care 
must be taken not to take away any layers f om the 
parent, unless they are well rooted ; many plants 
are destroyed for want of care in this respect. 
Leave such plants on the stools for another year, 
to get well rooted. 

Art. 4. — On the Management of Buds. 

After inoculation has been done in fruit trees for 
three or four weeks, the buds inserted may be looked 
over, and any that are beginning to swell in the bark 
so that they are cut by the bandage, may be released 



MANAGEMENT OF YOUNG PLANTS. 57 



either by taking it totally off, or releasing the bud 
by loosening it. This is essentially necessary to 
be done, as in many cases, buds are totally lost 
by being cut with the bandage. Buds should be 
carefully looked over every few days, until the 
fall of the leaf, as at that time the descent of 
the sap will be completed. Many persons make it 
a rule to take off entirely the bandages from buds 
when they are taken or fully united to the tree. 
Others, on the contrary, leave on all the bandage 
during the winter, to protect the bud, and some take 
off the bandage when the buds swell, and rebind 
with new bass for the winter. It is difficult to de- 
cide on which of these methods is the best, and 
we must be guided in a measure by circumstances, 
as to which will answer the best purpose. For my 
own part, I think that it is best to. pay great atten- 
tion to buds when they begin to swell, as the sap 
descends ; and the best method is to loosen the 
bandage at different times, to give the buds room to 
swell ; I think also that the rebinding of the bud in 
the fall with a view to protect it during the winter, 
is, in many cases, of an essential service ; for we 
often see buds winter killed, owing to the severity 
of the winter, by springing the bark off of them, 
and the lip off the cut in the stock. In the following 
spring, the top of the stock may be cut off, about 
six inches from the bud, and if any bandage be 
about it, it should be taken away, that it may not be 
cut when it commences to grow ; the part left above 
the bud is intended to tie the young shoot to, and 
protect it from being blown from the stock in sum- 
mer when making rapid growth. 

Summer management, — When the buds begin to 



58 FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 

make their summer shoots, the trees should be gone 
over and divested of any shoot that may grow from 
the stock ; which will impoverish the growth of the 
bud intended to form the head of the tree. When 
the shoot from the bud is some inches long, it may 
be tied to the stick (before mentioned) with bass or 
other string, in a manner to guard it against storms or 
winds ; in this process, care must be taken that the 
strings are not tied too tight, which will cut the 
young wood ; every attention should be paid during 
the season, to the growth of the young wood, by 
keeping off any insect, taking off the dead leaves, 
and the like. In the following spring, the snag or 
piece of dead wood left above the bud to protect it, 
should be cut off neatly close to it, so that the wood 
heals freely. 

Art. 5. — On the Management of Grafts. 

The principal care required in grafts, is to look 
them over in the spring, and to see that the compo- 
sition or covering remains in a safe state ; and if 
there be any of the bandage either falling off by ac- 
cident or otherwise displaced, it should be immedi- 
ately replaced, that the air may not have access to the 
wound where the graft is united to the tree, which, 
in most cases, is the cause of a failure. When the 
graft is united and begins to make a growth, the 
bandage, if bandage has been used, may be taken off 
to prevent it from cutting the graft, which in many 
cases, is the cause of its being blown from the trees 
in stormy seasons, as the bark and wood is often in 
this case cut nearly half asunder by the bandage. 
If the grafts grow very luxuriantly in the springs 



/ 



MANAGEMENT OF YOUNG PLANT S . 



59 



they should be protected by tieing a small stick to 
the branch grafted in, in such a manner, that the 
graft can be tied to it, to support it from storms, 
and winds. 

In the following spring, the grafted trees may be 
looked over, and any young suckers growing from 
the stock or tree that may be liable to injure and 
retard the growth of the graft, may be taken off. 
Any decayed bark or snags near the bark that is 
either useless or a nuisance, should be cut away, 
and the tree should in every part be properly and 
neatly pruned. 

Art. 6. — On the Management of the Inarch. 

Where trees are inarched, they require to be of- 
ten looked over, as the branches inarched, are often 
displaced by storms and winds. Every care should 
be taken to keep the soil around the roots of the 
trees or plants inarched in good order, by digging 
in manure and keeping them moist. This is very 
essential, because the healthier the plants worked 
are kept, the better will they unite together ; it 
should always be recollected, that plants should be 
kept in the best possible state of health, when either 
budded, grafted, or inarched, because when a free 
flow of sap is kept up, then the union of the two 
parts by the sap takes place much more speedily. 

After the plants have been inarched two or three 
months, they may then be examined, to see if they 
are well united, which if it has taken place and a 
perfect union is made of the inarch and tree, it may 
then be cut from the parent plant by cutting asun- 
der that part between the stock and the one from 



60 FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 

which the inarch is taken. It is well here to give 
a caution to the young practitioner, not to do this 
too soon, as in that case it is often seen that the in- 
arch is lost ; it should not be done until a good union 
lias taken place. 



CHAPTER IV. 

SPRING MANAGEMENT IN THE NURSERY. 

Art. 1. — Heading down Young Trees. 

The heading down of young trees is the first 
thing that can conveniently be done in the nursery 
in the early part of the spring, and should be atten- 
ded to before the ground is sufficiently open for 
drawing trees, and such as comes under spade work. 

Budded or inoculated trees, as the peach, pear, 
and the like, may be first done by cutting down the 
wood above the bud six inches or a foot,, leaving a 
part of the stock above the bud for the purpose of 
tieing the young growth made from the eye ; trees 
worked the year previous, may have the piece of 
wood left above the bud (which is now of no use) 
cut close to the bud in a neat clean manner, so that 
it may heal freely. In performing this business, 
care must be taken to take away any useless shoots 
from the tree below the bud, that will draw sub- 
stance from and impoverish it. Any trees that are 
intended to remain in the nursery another year and 
that are intended to form bushy heads, may now 



/ 



SPRING MANAGEMENT. 61 

be headed down close to the bud or graft, cutting 
each shoot down two or three eyes, which will throw 
out luxuriant shoots, and form it to bushy rows. 
At this time most trees may be headed down and 
pruning performed, as directed under its proper 
head. 

Art. 2. — 'Drawing Trees. 

The drawing of trees may be commenced when 
the frost is out of the ground^ so that the spade can 
be worked freely. It is very rarely that there is 
sufficient pains taken in drawing trees, which can be 
accounted for in different ways ; in the first place, 
the season is so short when it is to be done, that the 
haste to complete the business of drawing in a nur- 
sery is often some excuse for the improper manner 
in which it is done. However, there can be no ex- 
cuse for the cutting off all the fibrous roots of trees 
in a manner that they are valueless, or so much in- 
jured, that it will take two or three years before they 
can re-establish themselves, so as to make a luxu- 
riant growth. In the act of drawing young trees, 
every care should be taken to take them from the 
ground in such a manner that they may retain as 
much as possible, their roots in their natural state, 
and that the fibrous roots are not cut off. In taking 
a young tree from the ground, the first thing to be 
done, is to take out the soil a spade deep or deeper 
than the roots on one side of the tree, at such a dis- 
tance that the roots may not be cut too short ; this 
done, the tree is to be gently pulled on that side to 
draw the top roots tight, which are to be cut by. 
spading round in a circular manner on the opposite 



62 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



side at such a distance that when cut they may be 
of sufficient length to support the tree. 

Art. 3. — On Clearing and Digging the Ground. 

When the trees intended to be taken up are all 
drawn, the trees headed down, tied up, and the like 
operations are completed for the spring, the ground 
should be cleared of all kinds of brush, rubbish, 
weeds, &c, and neatly dug to complete the spring 
business. Every part of the squares, borders and 
walks, should be cleared up at the earliest opportu- 
nity ; if deferred, it will be likely to interfere with 
the whole nursery business for the summer season. 
When the ground is cleared, every part of it should 
be neatly dug. In digging the ground for planting 
out young seedlings, if the ground to be planted is 
naturally poor, some good rotten manure may be 
added, and spread regularly over the ground. This 
done, a trench of one spade deep and wide, may be 
taken out at one end and wheeled to the other ; this 
done, commence digging regularly across the piece 
turning the earth from the shade upside down, and 
leaving the surface rough as it leaves the spade. 
The method pursued by many persons, of working 
the surface of the earth fine and even, is bad, be- 
cause the rains beat down the surface hard, and in 
a great measure, prevent the sun and air from ex- 
erting their influence on the roots of the trees when 
planted. The ground also becomes baked hard and 
is more troublesome to work with the hoe than when 
left in a rough state. 



SPRING MANAGEMENT. 



63 



Art. 4. — On Planting out Seedlings, fyc. 

When the nursery is cleared of rubbish, the 
ground dug, and preparation made, the planting out 
of seedlings may be done in the following manner : 
the ground being prepared, the first consideration is 
the distance the trees are to be planted apart, be- 
tween the rows, and in the rows. This must in a 
measure, depend on the kinds to be planted, and 
the time they are to be allowed to grow in the nur- 
sery. It is rather difficult to decide on this very 
important point in the nursery business ; for it is 
certain, the distance allowed for the growing of 
young trees in their infant state, has a great bearing 
on their forming into a proper state for a bearing 
tree. The distance allowed between trees in the 
nursery by many growers, I consider to be too 
great, as the object of many persons is to cultivate 
between the rows with a horse, in order to save ex- 
pense. This, I consider bad economy, as in the 
first place, much ground is occupied ; and seconly, 
there is much surface of ground to cultivate, which 
gives additional labor. By trees being too far apart 
in their infant state, they neither grow nor form into 
healthy vigorous plants. Young seedlings should be 
planted sufficiently thick, so that the ground may give 
a good revenue when they are taken from it. If it 
will not admit of this by the best cultivation, the 
business is not worth pursuing. I am well aware 
that this view will be opposed by many on the ground 
that the more a young tree is exposed and the less 
it is nursed in its infant state, the better it will thrive 
when exposed and planted for bearing. If this be 
true, a u Nursery v is a misnomer, and culture use- 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION* 



less. And if we call in nature for a decision, we 
shall find that young seedlings of all denominations 
of trees, always form into the most stately habit 
when chance places the seed in a rich soil, where it 
is partly secured from cold blast by a natural pro- 
tection ; and where the soil is uniform in moisture, 
that it is to say, not inundated by ivet or parched 
with droughty as the natural changes of the weather 
may happen, For most kinds of young trees to be 
planted in the nursery, as the apple, pear, cherry, 
&c, the distance of two feet between the rows, 
and eighteen inches in the row, will, I think answer 
a good purpose. Other trees of a more dwarf habit, 
as the plum or peach, may be planted thicker, ac- 
cording to their size ; which can be judged of by 
an intelligent person. 



CHAPTER V. 



SUMMER MANAGEMENT IN THE NURSERY, 



Art. 1. — Hoeing and Clearing the Ground. 

In the month of June or July, or as soon as any 
weeds begin to make their appearance, every part of 
the nursery should have a good hoeing, and if there 
be any large weeds of the perennial kinds, as couch- 
grass, thistle or such troublesome cumberers of the 
soil, they should be immediately taken from the 
ground and either burnt or taken to some place to 
rot and decay, to be again returned to the soil as 



SUMMER MANAGEMENT. 



65 



manure. Advantage should be taken to do this kind 
of work on fine, dry days when the weeds may per- 
ish shortly after being severed from the soil : and if 
there be a quantity of seedlings it will be well to give 
the ground a good rough raking after the /ioe, to 
bring the young tender weeds on the surface of the 
ground, in order that the sun may act on them and 
that they may shortly die, and not again re-establish 
themselves in the soil. At this time also every walk 
should be examined, hoed and cleared, so that every 
part of the nursery has a clean and orderly appear- 
ance. 

(The trees should also be gone over and divested 
of any insects or other nuisances that retard their 
growth. 

Art. 2. — Summer Pruning and supporting young 
Trees. 

When young trees have nearly made their sum- 
mer growth, which is at the end of July, or begin- 
ning of August, they should be pruned of all useless 
shoots ; for this purpose a sharp knife may be used, 
and great care should be taken that the wounds are 
cut clean so that they may heal freely. When the in- 
cision is badly done with rough edged tools, it is 
seldom that they form a callous readily, and often 
the part becomes cankered, turns black and is other- 
wise injured, so that the connecting limbs or plants 
are affected, and from thence in many cases the in- 
jury extends to every part of the tree. Where trees 
are intended to be made standards of five or six 
feet from dwarfs that have strong leading shoots, 
this is a more proper time to prune off the under 
5 



66 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



shoots than either the fall or spring, for the wounds 
heal more freely, and the currents of sap flow more 
abundantly to the top of the tree, as it is not retard- 
ed and retained so much in its ascent by the under 
shoots. 

Newly inoculated and grafted trees should now be 
carefully looked over and any luxuriant shoots, that 
are impoverishing the bud or graft should be taken 
from the tree. This is a part of nursery business 
generally too much neglected ; for in many instances 
inoculated and grafted trees are neglected by allow- 
ing young wood to grow from the stock under and 
over the graft or bud, and the consequence is that 
the buds or grafts are impoverished by being deprived 
of the sap which should flow into them from the 
stock. Every attention should now also be paid in 
disbudding or breaking off useless growing wood, 
and cleansing the trees from insects as they appear. 

When young trees are slender in their growth and 
require to be supported by stakes it should now be 
done, by placing straight stakes of a convenient 
height near to them, and the slender shoots may be 
tied up in a neat manner with bass or other strings : 
indeed everything should now be done in the sup- 
porting slender branches of trees, pruning, &c, re- 
quired in the nursery. 



FALL MANAGEMENT* 



67 



CHAPTER VI. 

FALL MANAGEMENT OF THE NURSERY. 

Art. 1. — Destroying Weeds in Autumn. 

Much of the success of the nursery depends on 
the fall management, which by many persons is little 
attended to. To clear the ground in the spring and 
summer has but little bearing on the well being of 
young fruit trees, if they are is not well attended to 
in the fall ; for when weeds are allowed to ' remain 
and distribute their seeds on the ground, in the fall, 
the nursery may be considered more a nursery of 
weeds and nuisances, than a spot, of ground adapted 
and managed for the growing young trees in a healthy 
and vigorous state. 

Supposing the fall management to begin with the 
month of September ; the principal thing to be done 
at that time is to clear the ground of all kinds of 
weeds that are in a state for seeding and encumber 
the ground ; the cultivator should also be aware 
that weeds when taken from the ground before they 
have seeded, do not exhaust the soil of nutriment so 
much as when they have become ripe ; for when 
weeds are even cut off when green and the roots re- 
main in the ground, they absorb from the atmosphere 
much nutriment which they return to the soil. Hence 
the propriety of clearing the ground of them is not to 
be doubted, therefore at this season clear the ground 
of all kinds of weeds and anything that may either be 
considered as a nuisance, or creative of vermin or 



68 FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION* 



insects, or any thing that may in future be an injury 
to the plants. 

And here let me remind the cultivator that it is 
in the fall that many kinds of insects are concealed 
in a chrysalis state, and are there awaiting the re- 
turn of spring or the stronger influence of the 
gun to hatch them into life. Most of the old kind of 
decayed vegetables, especially those of a gross porous 
nature are the very cradles that hatch many kinds of 
insects into life, and lull the dormant chrysalis dur- 
ing winter in protected repose. Hence it is evident 
that the removal of such nuisance is indispensably 
necessary, in order to counteract a greater evil. 

Art. 2.— Covering and Protecting Trees. 

Many kinds of young and tender trees, require to 
be protected or guarded from the winter's severity, 
as the foreign grape, young seedlings, cuttings, and 
those plants that are not well established and rooted 
into the soil. The time of doing this is generally 
about the middle of November or a few days pre- 
vious to the setting in of the winter. The grape 
vines and raspberry canes may be laid down into the 
ground as directed under their proper heads of cul- 
ture of the grape. Seedlings may be protected if in 
narrow beds, by placing a quantity of leaves among 
them and then throwing on each side a quantity of 
light earth in order to keep it compact about their 
stems. Young cuttings or other dwarf plants that 
require protection may be secured by placing about 
their stems a quantity of rotten manure, leaf mould, 
or other substance about six or eight inches high, 
so as to well protect the roots and keep the feeble 



FALL MANAGEMENT. 



69 



plants from being drawn from the ground. Any 
kinds of trees that require protecting during the win- 
ter in their branches may be done at this season, ac- 
cording to the methods laid down under the article 
of ' 'Protecting Trees" in the Miscellany. Indeed 
everything should be done at this time preparatory 
ta tne coming winter, in the neatest and most care- 
ful manner. 

Many kinds of dwarf trees, that are too tender to 
be exposed to the winter may be protected above 
ground, by placing straw or an old mat about their 
branches, and binding it closely either by a strong 
string or wisp of ozier or other tough pliable wood* 



THE 



PART THIRD. 

FRUIT GARDEN AND 



ORCHARD, 



CHAPTER I. 

ON THE MANAGEMENT OF TREES. 

Art. I.— On the Selection of Fruit. 

In the selection of the different kinds of fruit, the 
orchardist or planter should consider that the plant- 
ing of fruit is not merely a temporary speculation ; 
but, a process that is always expensive at the com- 
mencement ; and that the after value that will acrue 
from it, will generally be according to the adaptation 
and selection of the ground to be planted. Hence 
it will appear that the capital invested will return a 
certain per centum, in accordance with the judicious 
selection of the ground, and making a proper choice 
of good kinds. 

In order to give every facility to the selection of 
the most proper kinds of fruit, I have been more 
limited in my descriptive list than usual in such 
books. The object here kept in view has been to 
recommend none but those kinds that have been 
proved to possess such qualities as render them 
deserving a place in the fruit garden or orchard un- 



FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. 



71 



der common culture : and here let it be understood 
that many kinds of superior qualities have not been 
described which require skilful culture ; for although 
their superior qualities demand for them every re- 
commendation, it is under the care of the connoi- 
seur and scientific gardener only, that they can be 
cultivated to any advantage.* 

Art. 2. — Location of the Fruit Garden or 
Orchard. 

The spot of land chosen for the fruit department 
will require to be sheltered from the north and north- 
west wind, which are always injurious to fruit planta- 
tions when in blossom. If it be so located as to lay 
a little descending to the southeast quarter the bet- 
ter, as in that situation it will receive the influence 
of the sun in the early part of the spring, so con- 
genial in most cases to the growth and maturing of 
fruit. The nature of the soil should have the next 
consideration of the planter. A rich mellow loam, 
with a moderate dry, loamy sub-soil or bottom, 
with an even surface, that the water may not collect 
in the fall and spring and saturate the soil, will be 
found to answer most kinds of fruit. There are 
yearly many thousands of fruit trees totally destroy- 
ed by being placed in a location where the trees are 
always saturated ivith water. 

The plot of ground being fixed upon, the next 
consideration is the preparing it for planting, which I 
consider a very important point, and deserving much 

*To such persons as are about to make fruit plantations, it is re- 
commended that, their selections be made from respectable nurseries, 
and from those wiiich are famed for superior kinds. 



72 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



more attention than is generally bestowed on the 
subject. 

Art. 3.— Preparing the Ground. 

The preparing of ground for the plantations of 
fruit is so simple that it would appear to require lit- 
tle comment at this place ; but as the subject is gen- 
erally but little attended to, it will 6e proper to 
throw out a few hints to the inexperienced planter. 

In the first place the ground should be well work- 
ed a year or two previous to the planting, so that 
the earth is well pulverized in order to cling to 
the fibrous roots of the tree : for, if the soil is 
rough, adhesive, and not mellow, the fine fibrous 
roots cannot come into contact with the nutriment it 
contains, and so soon as the hot weather sets in, the 
earth dries, and finally the process of vegetation is 
greatly retarded and in many cases the trees die. 
Every attention should be paid to the cleansing of 
the land of all kinds of perennial weeds, as the dock, 
couch-grass and the like ; it should also be cleansed 
of any stones or other unnecessary rubbish ; a quan- 
tity of well rotted manure should be well worked 
and mixed with the soil, and every thing done to put 
the ground in the very best order one year previous 
to making the plantation. 

Art. 4. — On Planting Fruit Trees. 

Before I speak of the practice of planting, I 
shall make a few cursory remarks. The planting of 
fruit trees being for no other purpose than utility, it 
is necessary that every precaution should be used 



FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD, 73 



to forward the intended purpose by the best means. 
I do not hesitate to say that many trees, and indeed 
sometimes whole plantations of fruit, are often total- 
ly spoiled by improper treatment when young. By 
due observation it will be seen, that trees have a 
great resemblance to animals in their infant state, 
namely, in requiring proper nourishment to expand 
their proper functions, in order to form a strong, 
healthy subject at a future period. And secondly, 
the planter will recollect that his object is to culti- 
vate such fruits only as are of a good quality, 
which have mostly been obtained by a high state of 
cultivation, and can only be obtained in a healthy 
state by the best of culture. 

Before I enter on the planting of fruit trees, it 
will be proper to say a few words on the selection 
of the trees, which I consider very essential, as 
those that are in a diseased or cankery state when 
young, seldom grow and form into strong, healthy 
trees. 

In the selection of trees the first thing to be at- 
tended to is to examine them well and choose those 
which have a clean, straight stem, and without any 
canker, wound, or other defect. The top should be 
of a regular expansion, and the branches equally 
dividing themselves so that an equilibrium is pre- 
served from the crown of the stem in every part to 
the top of the tree. The roots should be regular 
and have a quantity of small fibres at the ex- 
tremity of the leaders. And here let me remind the 
reader that every care in taking up the tree should 
be used, that those are not cut off, for the loss of 
them will greatly retard the growth of the tree the 
first year, as it will in such cases have to make 



74 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



them anew before it can make any growth. When 
fibrous roots are cut off, the tree itself may be 
considered as merely a cutting, which must form its 
roots from the base before it can grow to any size 
and make the wonted efforts of vegetation designed 
by nature. 

The planting of fruit requires more practical 
knowledge and particular attention than is generally 
apprehended by the inexperienced cultivator. From 
mismanagement in planting may be often traced, not 
only a lingering and unfruitful growth of the tree, 
but, in many cases, little effort in vegetation after 
planting and the certain death of the tree in a few- 
years. This defect may sometimes be traced to 
planting too deep, which in my practice I have 
found a universal error in fruit trees planted in small 
city gardens, and other places, when it has been 
done by inexperienced hands. Planting too deep 
is more particularly exemplified in the apple, the 
cherry, and those kinds of trees whose roots natu- 
rally grow near the earth's surface. Deep planting 
brings such roots into a location where they cannot 
receive their wonted stimulants, as the influence of 
the sun and air ; and the food that is conveyed to 
them under such circumstances is in a crude, acrid 
state, and destitute of those fertilizing qualities it 
would acquire nearer the earth's surface. This 
consequence will always happen to trees planted too 
deep, as the cherry, apple, and indeed all kinds that 
do not strike roots from the main stem, as the wil- 
low, button-ball, and many kinds of forest trees, and 
shrubs, which, when planted too deep, lose their 
original roots, and replace them from the stem near 
the earth's surface. In contrariety to the above, 



FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. 



75 



there is a frequent error in planting trees, which 
is, that their roots are planted too shallow, so that 
the drought affects their fibrous roots, and they 
cannot cling to and draw nutriment from the soil ; 
they are, therefore, eventually dried up, and the fol- 
lowing season, the main roots have to produce new 
fibres to draw nutriment from the soil. 

The true system for planting trees is to follow 
their natural depth and location as much as possible, 
which can easily he obtained by examining the depth 
and natural position of the roots before removal. 

In the many authors I have perused, I have not 
read any satisfactory description of a method of plant- 
ing fruit trees. They all agree that the hole intend- 
ed for the tree should be dug larger than the circum- 
ference of its roots, in order to give it a free 
expansion without cramping in the hole, which is 
often the case in inexperienced hands. The next 
point agreed upon is the breaking up, mixing and 
pulverizing the bottom of the hole, so that the under 
tier of roots may strike freely, and quickly be estab- 
lished in the soil : after this preparation, the plant- 
ing is recommended to be done, by placing the tree 
in the centre of the hole, filling it up about half way, 
and then gently shaking it upwards in order to draw 
the roots in their proper position, and treading close 
the fine earth to them. This method is not correct 
either in theory or practice ; for in most cases the 
roots must most certainly be forced out of their 
natural position, in the first place, by pressing the 
upper tier of roots to the bottom of the hole with 
the earth and treading, which should according to 
their natural position, be placed near the earth's sur- 
face ; in the second place, the roots are drawn up and 



76 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



pressed down by the shaking the tree, and, instead 
of their laying in a regular expanded horizontal man- 
ner, if examined, will be found to be bent in an ir- 
regular manner : the over treading also displaces the 
roots, and the consequence is, that many of the best 
fibrous roots, being partly injured and out of their 
natural position, either die or have to make new 
roots from their leaders, in order to draw a proper 
nourishment to support the tree. Hence many fruit 
trees, after planting, remain for several years in an 
almost dormant state, when fruit-buds are formed 
instead of icood-buds, which, if allowed to flower and 
bear fruit, will dwarf the tree so that it never as- 
sumes the size and habit it would acquire if properly 
planted at first. 

When a fruit tree is desired to form into a large 
handsome shape, every exertion should be used to 
encourage the growth into a strong luxuriant habit, 
and not to retard it in its infant state by allowing 
it to bear fruit, which always exhausts the sap that 
should feed the leaves, branches and like members 
of growth that are essential to form the habit of the 
tree. In the practice of planting fruit trees, the 
operator should make himself well acquainted with 
the natural growth and habit of both the roots and 
branches of the tree : for it will be found that dif- 
ferent kinds of trees, have quite a contrary natural 
position of their roots ; for instance, as before stated, 
the cherry and apple tree roots are near the surface 
of the soil, whilst the pear perforates much deeper 
into the subsoil. All these positions should be care- 
fully examined and understood before planting, for 
it is in vain to reverse the position of roots to any 
good purpose ; indeed when it is done it is an act 



FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. 



77 



of violence imposed on nature and its ill effects will 
soon be discerned in the tree. 

In the practice of planting, I recommend that the 
natural position of the root of the tree be examined, 
the hole dug wider than their circumference, the 
bottom of it well broken up, the tree placed in the 
centre, and the bottom tier of roots placed in an ex- 
tended manner ; then apply some fine earth over 
them as a covering, being careful that no cavity is 
left under the bole of the tree ; after this layer of 
roots is properly placed and covered, tiien prepare 
to lay the upper tier in their natural expanded posi- 
tion, being careful not to cramp or bend them, but 
let their fibres be fully extended ; this done, fill up 
the hole with well pulverized earth a little above the 
surface, and rather highest near the stem in order to 
let off excessive moisture from the roots of the tree; 
the surface may then be gently trod and the work is 
done. That the tree should be supported by stakes, 
and the ground kept in good order, are requisites too 
well known to require any comment, only that they 
should be attentively and strictly seen to at all times 
when needed. 

Art. 5. — On the Pruning and Formation of Fruit 
Trees. 

To form a tree properly it will require to be 
pruned and regulated when young, in order to bring 
it into a proper shape and fruitfulness. Supposing the 
tree to be two or three years old from the graft or 
bud, a head must be formed at the intended height 
by heading it down in the spring to two or three 
buds or eyes in each shoot that is near the crown 
when the young shoots begin to grow ; they may be 



78 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



taken off to three or four in number of the strongest 
and healthiest, as they are intended to form the 
tree. During the summer the young shoots may be 
cleared of any filth or insects that may be detrimen- 
tal to them. In the following spring the trees must 
be pruned in such a manner as to form a regular 
handsome head. It will be recollected that is the the 
proper time to form a handsome tree, as each branch 
being formed from a common centre, draws sap in 
proportion to its luxuriance ; and they afterwards 
form lateral or side shoots in proportion to their 
vigor ; therefore it must be evident to any intelligent 
observer that the formation of a tree in its infant 
state is of the greatest importance. 

It will be often seen that (me shoot is much more 
luxuriant than another, which is owing to its being 
of a more succulent nature, and consequently draws 
a greater portion of sap : by heading down those 
shoots to three or four eyes in the spring the luxuri- 
ance will be divided into so many parts, and bring it 
on a balance with the other parts of the tree. This 
method may be continued for two or three years, 
when the habit or shape of the tree will be seen. 
The port or habit of fruit trees should be considered ; 
as the laws of nature are not easily reversed to any 
advantage, consequently they should be as much as 
possible cherished, for by practical observation 
(which is always the best guide to perfection,) it will 
be seen that some trees grow in a pyramidal form, 
some weeping, others conical, and some form a regu- 
lar head of an even circumference at the bottom, 
and tapering on the top in the form of a dome. 
The first of these habits, the pyramid, is beauti- 
fully exemplified in the young trees of the button-ball 



FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD . 79 



and some varieties of the cherry ; the second, the 
weeping, in the weeping willow and the native Ame- 
rican elm ; the third, forming the shape of a dome ? 
is generally represented in most kind of apple trees, 
and the conical is often beautifully represented in 
the cherry and many kinds of pears when young. 
To this kind of port or habit of trees there are many 
exceptions or at least variations, which never fail to 
happen as the trees are far advanced in years ; for 
although all these different habits will appear in trees 
when in their youth or healthy state of growth, old 
age will deform them a limb at a time until their 
symmetry is entirely lost. 

In the act of pruning, the first thing to be attend- 
ed to, is the port or habit of the tree, which should 
in all cases be kept in its natural order by pruning it 
in such a manner as to encourage the most healthy 
parts of the tree. The next thing to be attended 
to, is in procuring proper tools for the purpose, 
which should be of the best quality. 

In pruning trees, it should be recollected that all 
shoots which are amputated from the tree w T hilst 
young, heal their wounds better than when old, and 
that the shoots should be so taken off, as to leave 
the wound on the tree in a sloping manner down- 
wards, to let off the water freely. Water settling 
on the wounds of trees, often saturates and decays 
them, and also the trunk of the tree. 

Art. 6. — On Thinning and Regulating Fruit. 

Much might be said on the subject of thinning 
fruit ; indeed, in some cases, it may be said to be 



80 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



one of the principal requisites in horticulture, though 
almost universally neglected. 

Before I proceed to the method of thinning fruit, 
I beg leave to state that my object is to consider the 
subject in reference to its most extensive branch, 
namely, the thinning of all kinds of fruit on trees, 
vines, fyc. I must direct the reader to that best 
criterion of horticulture, the natural properties of 
trees and vegetables. By due observation it will be 
seen that fruit, as cherries, plums, pears and apples, 
are generally the best in flavor when the crop is 
thin ; and the crop in the following season in such 
cases is pretty certain, if it is not injured by the 
blight and other local causes. On the contrary, when 
trees are thickly loaded, the fruit is not so good in 
quality and flavor, and the crop in the succeeding 
year is very uncertain ; the latter case is often ex- 
emplified in trees which bear alternately every other 
year. I think no person will deny the correctness 
of the above assertions, nor, that it can be in a mea- 
sure obviated by the thinning and regulating of fruit. 
Practical gardeners well know that peach trees, 
grape vines, and all kinds of fruit trees forced under 
glass, bear regular crops of fruit without intermission 
for many years, and that such trees and vines are 
ahvays thinned of such fruit as is considered super- 
fluous. Instances might be quoted where fruit grows 
almost natural, which is destitute of that richness of 
flavor it would acquire if the tree had been thinned. 
I do not recollect of seeing the plum bear so free 
and thrive so well at any place as at Albany, New 
York, which place appears to be quite congenial to 
this fruit ; the gages, magnum bonum, and all the 
finer varieties, are found there in abundance. But I 



FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. 81 



cannot say that the flavor was so rich as might be 
expected, which I think is partly owing to the trees 
being heavily loaded every other year. 

To give any precise rule for the thinning of fruit 
would far exceed my prescribed limits, and indeed 
it would be rather a difficult task ; therefore I shall 
endeavor to hit upon some medium which shall be 
satisfactory and clear. ' 

Vegetables and trees, like animals, have their 
different stages of life, as youth, maturity, old age, 
and decay ; this must be considered in thinning of 
fruit. Young trees will be found most capable of 
maturing a heavy crop of fruit ; and generally it 
is seen that they have the most moderate produce. 
Old trees, on the contrary, are the least capable of 
maturing a heavy crop, which they mostly bear :■ — 
hence it would appear that young trees do not re- 
quire so much thinning as those in years : but in 
most cases they should be attended to. It may 
here be observed that where young trees are in a 
luxuriant state, all the fruit should be allowed to 
remain on the tree in order to reduce it to a proper 
state ; and that very old trees should be thinned of 
their fruit in proportion to the strength of the tree, 
which is generally feeble. 

Young trees often bear fruit the first year of plant- 
ing, in consequence of their being checked in growth 
by removal ; but in this case the fruit should always 
be taken off, or the tree will be much exhausted and 
retarded in its growth at a time when it should have 
every effort afforded to nourish and cause it to 
strike root and establish itself in a healthy manner. 



6 



82 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



CHAPTER II. 

ON THE CULTURE AND MANAGEMENT OF BERRIES* 

Art* I.— General Remarks. 

The currant, raspberry, strawberry and goose- 
berry, are examples of the most useful kind of ber- 
ries. A berry may be defined as a pulpy substance, 
containing small stones or seed ; and ripening with 
a pleasant acid taste, and in most cases, when in a 
wild state, serves as food for birds : when highly 
cultivated it is mostly valuable for the dessert, and 
is used in domestic cookery in many ways hereafter 
described under the different heads. 

Art. 2.— On the Culture of the Strawberry. 

Its origin and useful properties. — The strawberry 
derives its English name from the custom originally 
followed of putting straw under the plants when in 
fruit, to protect it from being spoiled by the ground, 
which rot it in moist weather. 

The botanical name Fragaria, is given from the 
fragrance of the fruit, which is said to sweeten the 
breath, remove the tartarious substance from the 
teeth, and is classed by physicians among their 
pleasant remedies. In domestic concerns it is used 
in many ways when ripe ; it forms a delicious des- 
sert — is used with cream, and preserved in many 
different ways. 

Native country and varieties. — The species of 
the strawberry are numerous and its varieties are 



THE STRAWBERRY. 



83 



unlimited, which are natives of North America, 
Chili, Hudson's Bay, England, and the Alps. Many 
species are designated from their primitive country 
or place of growth. 

Soil and location. — The soil best adapted to 
the strawberry is a rich, mellow T loam, and if a 
portion of sand the better. The location should 
be that of a tolerably moist place, well exposed to 
the south and protected on the north quarter. 

Mode of propagation and culture. — The new T 
varieties of strawberries are .obtained from seed of 
the choice kinds, which may be sown in boxes or 
pots filled with light rich earth in the fall ;. the seed 
must be sown very shallow and lightly covered ; the 
boxes should be placed where they are partly pro- 
tected in the winter from its severity ; and early in 
the spring they may be placed in a frame or other 
place, to start the seed into growth early. 

When the plants are grown into three or four leaves 
they should be pricked out into a nursery bed, in a 
cool, moist situation, partly shaded ; and in the fall 
they may be planted out into a final bed for fruiting, 
as directed for general culture. The method of 
propagating the strawberry is from the runners of 
the mother plant in the fall. This may be greatly 
facilitated, by covering the earliest plants from the 
vines with a little fine, light, rich earth, and giving 
occasional waterings, in order to make the young 
plants root freely. By this method the plants will 
be much stronger for planting and withstand the win- 
ter's severity better ; being more strongly rooted in 
the ground, they will not be so liable to be drawn 
out by the frost. 

Planting the bed. — Previous to planting, the 



84 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



ground should be well cleansed of any perennial 
roots, as couch-grass, dock, &c. ; it may then be 
well manured with rotted dung and dug a spade 
deep, raked off even, and shallow drills drawn 
eighteen inches apart, leaving an alley of two or two 
and a half feet between every three rows, for the 
parting of the beds. Having the ground prepared, 
the plants may be then taken up and dressed by 
taking from them any dead leaves, and shortening 
the roots with a sharp knife. The plants should be 
dibbled in the rows from twelve to fifteen inches 
apart, and a gentle watering given immediately after 
planting. This work should, if possible, be per- 
formed of an evening after a shower of rain, as the 
plants will then strike root freely. The culture of 
the strawberry is simply to keep the ground clear, 
by hoeing, raking, &c. in spring and summer. 

After the strawberry has flowered and the fruit 
begins to swell, if the ground is very dry, the bed 
should have two or three good waterings in order to 
swell the fruit in good perfection. The cause of 
strawberries bearing light crops of fruit is more 
owing to drought than any thing else I am acquainted 
with. 

Ripening the fruit. — When the fruit begins to 
change its color, some short grass or straw may be 
laid under the vines in order to keep the fruit from 
rotting on the ground, which is often the case, espe- 
ally in wet seasons. When the fruit is all picked 
and the plants have put out their stoles or runners, 
the beds may then be dressed of their weeds and 
any litter, by cutting off all the runners close to the 
stool, hoeing up the weeds, and raking off all the 
rubbish neatly between the rows. 



THE RASPBERRY. 



85 



Winter management. — The strawberry requires 
to be slightly covered, during the winter, to protect 
it from the winter's severity. 

The following paragraph is from the Cultivator, 
and the best article I have seen on the manuring the 
strawberry. " With regard to the manures for straw- 
berry beds," says the Editor, " such are to be pre- 
ferred as are cool, and from the seed of weeds. Cow 
manure is preferable to that of horses. Bone dust 
and horn shavings are excellent, if not applied in 
too large large quantities. -A bushel and a half of 
either should go as far as a load of long dung. For 
top-dressing the beds in autumn there is nothing 
better than tan, that from the morocco leather being 
preferable. The tan smothers weeds, keeps the 
soil moist, the berries clean, and seems withal to 
afford the specific food of the] plant. It is re- 
commended to cover strawberry beds lightly with 
straw, in the spring, and burn it off, which destroys 
the seed of weeds, &c. We have been cruelly 
censured for this recommendation, by one who un- 
wittingly burnt piles of straw upon his beds, and 
consequently destroyed his plants." 



Art. 3. — On the Culture of the Raspberry. 

Origin of its name and useful qualities. — The 
raspberry derived its English name from the ap- 
pearance of the fruit to a rasp or file — its botanical 
name Rubus. 

The raspberry is eaten as a dessert when ripe, and 
in cookery as tarts ; it is preserved in jams and jel- 



86 FRUIT GARDEN C03IPANI0N. 

lies, and a very pleasant wine is made from the ripe 
fruit.* 

The raspberry is a native of Great Britain and 
many parts of Europe, and North America. Its va- 
rieties are numerous. They have been much improv- 
ed by raising seedlings by cross impregnating with 
superior kinds. 

The raspberry may be raised from seed in pre- 
cisely the same manner as the strawberry, and plant- 
ed in a fruiting bed in the usual manner. 

Culture and Management, — The raspberry re- 
quires a deep rich soil to grow it to perfection ; and 
should be planted in beds in such a manner that one 
plant partially shades another from the burning rays 
of the sun. 

The method of propagation is in the first instance 
to obtain new varieties from seed, which should be 
sown in the fall in long narrow boxes of light rich 
earth ; when the plants come up in the spring they 
should be well w r atered in order to throw them into 
a healthy luxuriant growth. About the middle of 
June a nursery bed may be prepared to receive the 
young plants. A piece of rich ground may be se- 
lected for the purpose in a situation where it is part- 
ly protected from the sun's influence, but not too 
much shaded. Prepare the ground by giving a coat 
of good well rotted manure, dig and w r ell pulverize 
and mix it together, rake it level, and dibble the 
young plants in rows one foot apart and six inches 

* A very superior variety of the red raspberry has been raised from 
seed by Mr Mason Gardner at Charlestown, Massachusetts — which he 
has given the name of" the grape raspberry, 55 from the appearance of 
the fruit to a bunch of grapes. 



/ 



THE RASPBERRY. 



B7 



between in the row ; — the ground should be well 
worked in the summer season and everything done 
to encourage the growth of the young plants, and in 
the spring they may be planted out into a fruiting bed 
as recommended below- A moist time should be 
chosen for the transplanting of the seedling ; it is 
better to defer it after the time stated than to plant 
when the weather is very dry. 

The general method iu cultivating the raspberry 
is to prepare a piece of ground in the spring, and 
plant out young plants of the last year's growth in 
rows four feet apart each way : in the fall the old 
dead wood is cut away and the young shoots are laid 
down and covered over with earth about three or 
four inches deep to guard them from the severe frost 
a short time before the close of winter ; when the 
spring opens the shoots are taken up and neatly tied 
to stakes. The ground is well worked between the 
rows in the summer, and in the fall the old wood is 
cut out and the young laid down as before. An im- 
proved method of propagating the raspberry is by 
taking up the young plants between the rows, early 
in the spring that grow from the roots and planting 
them in a nursery bed. The method I could re- 
commend is to prepare a rich piece of ground by 
digging it and raking it smooth, when the young 
plants may be taken up and planted in rows one foot 
apart with a dibble and six inches in the row ; the 
ground will require to be well worked between the 
rows during the summer season, and in the fall or 
spring they may be planted out into the fruiting bed, 
as before directed. 



ss 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION . 



Art. 4 — On the Culture of the Currant. 

The currant is a native of Great Britain, many 
parts of Europe, and North America. Its species 
are few, and the varieties are not numerous. The 
fruit is considered extrercelv wholesome, and is 
eaten as a dessert ; it is used in domestic cookery 
in almost every way in which fruit can be applied. 
From it are made excellent jams and jellies, which 
are much esteemed in sickness, especially the black 
currant. It also makes an excellent wine and vine- 
gar. It is, indeed, one of those kinds of domestic 
fruits that should find a place everywhere. 

Propagation and Culture. — The currant is in- 
creased in varieties from seed, in the same manner 
as the strawberry and raspberry, but it is not worth 
while to undertake to improve the currant by seed ; 
for it may be asserted, I think with every confi- 
dence, that the red and white Dutch varieties, which 
have stood the test of nearly two centuries, have 
every property that can ever be expected to be 
found to centre in this valuable fruit. 

The best and most general method to propagate 
the currant is from cuttings of the young wood in 
the spring. The cuttings may be prepared by cut- 
ting them to about one foot in length, and taking out 
three or four of the lower eyes or buds, in order to 
prevent them from throwing out suckers from the 
root, and to form a clear stem. The cuttings being 
prepared, a piece of ground, lying in a northern as- 
pect, of a rich loamy nature, may then be prepared, 
by digging and well pulverizing the ground, raking it 
level, &c. ; this being clone, the cuttings may be in- 
serted in the soil by a line stretched across the bed, 



/ 



THE CURRANT. 



89 



This may be performed by pressing the cutting into 
the ground by the line from four to six inches, and 
from four to six inches apart in the rows ; this done, 
the earth may be closed to the cuttings by the heel ; 
the ground may then be neatly raked next to the 
row, and the work is done. The line may then be 
moved from a foot to fifteen inches for another row, 
and so continue until the whole is planted. The 
ground should be kept clear between the plants the 
first season, and if they are not wanted to be planted 
out the next year, in the spring they may be headed 
down to one eye in each shoot", and some rotten ma- 
nure put between the rows and dug in neatly ; they 
will then be in fine order for planting the next year. 

The best and most general method of cultivating 
the currant is to prepare a rich piece of ground, by 
manuring, digging, &c, and planting out the young 
plants from three and a half to four feet square 
each way, or, where large plantations are to be made, 
perhaps five feet between the row and three feet in 
the row would answer a better purpose, as in that 
case, a sufficient space would be allowed for a horse 
to work between them. 

The culture of the currant is simply to keep the 
ground clean and in good order by manuring, dress- 
ing, &c. The manner of pruning the currant is, to 
form a tree into four or five leading shoots, and 
prune in all the small wood every spring, to two or 
three eyes of the main shoots, leaving a leading 
shoot of young wood at the end of each main leader, 
of about five or six eyes. In order to keep the tree 
in a healthy, vigorous state, it is a good method to 
train up a young healthy shoot every year, and cut 
away an old one in such a manner, that the frame 



90 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



and form of the tree is not disfigured. By this me- 
thod a continual succession of young wood is kept 
up for many years. The currant is often trained to 
good advantage to trellisses or fences. 

Art. 5. — On the Culture of the Gooseberry. 

The gooseberry is a native of the same parts of 
the world as the currant ; but its species are more 
numerous, and its varieties unlimited and yearly in- 
creasing from seeds of the finer kinds. 

The gooseberry is a prominent article in domestic 
cookery ; when green it is used as a tart, and pre- 
served for that purpose in this state in bottles. 

When ripe it is used for the dessert, for pies, 
puddings, &c. ; it is also preserved in this state as 
jams and jellies ; and we have the testimony of 
Dorothy, the domestic consort of the u Vicar of 
Wakefield/' that the gooseberry, when ripe, makes 
an excellent wine, to which use it is often put in 
Great Britain. 

The new varieties of the gooseberry are obtained 
from seed in the same manner as the raspberry and 
currant. The manner of propagation is by cuttings, 
in the same way as the currant, and the mode of 
preparing and planting the ground precisely the 
same ; but the selection should be made in a low, 
moist, loamy spot of ground, or the gooseberry will 
seldom thrive well ; while the currant will thrive in 
almost any soil and location. 

Pruning. — The gooseberry tree should be well 
pruned every spring, so that the air may have free 
access to every part of it, in order that the fruit may 
swell freely and evade the mildew with which it is 



/ 



THE GOOSEBERRY. 



91 



generally affected more or less in this country. 
The method of pruning is the same as that employ- 
ed on the currant, with the exception that the young 
leading shoots of the main branch should never be 
shortened, but be allowed to remain at their full 
length. 

To facilitate the growth of this desirable fruit, 
seedlings should be raised from varieties of the 
country, which would most probably produce kinds 
of a superior quality that would escape the mildew, 
as it is seldom that the native varieties growing in 
the different parts of the Union are affected with 
that disease. Such kinds would probably produce 
fruit earlier and of better flavor being natural to 
the climate. I hope to see a trial made of this 
fruit by some of our enterprising fruit growers ; the 
experiment is certainly worth trying. 

In the many different modes I have seen practised 
in the culture of the gooseberry, I have seen none 
that has answered a better purpose than the growing 
of the trees in a very rich soil, and so situated that 
they have been in the time of swelling the berries 
partly shaded from the influence of the sun. This 
I have seen done to great advantage by planting the 
trees in the centre of four feet asparagus beds ; in 
such places the roots and branches are in a location 
where the heat and moisture is uniform, which is a 
grand point in the culture of the gooseberry, for 
when fully exposed the sun scalds the rinds of the 
fruit, and there can be little doubt that sudden 
changes from drought to moisture bring on the 
mildew and other diseases. 



92 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



CHAPTER III. 

CULTURE OF STONE FRUIT. 

Art. 1. — On the Culture of the Plum. 

Its native country and varieties.— The plum is a 
native of Great Britain, many parts of Europe, and 
North America. Its species are numerous and 
varieties undetermined. It is used in many ways 
in domestic cookery, as pies, puddings, tarts, &c, 
when ripe, and many varieties (the green gage par- 
ticularly), are often used when green in tarts ; 
the plum also is one of the best desserts of the sea- 
son. It is preserved by drying the fruit, when ripe, 
in an oven or the sun, and preserved with sugar in 
the usual way. 

The culture of the plum has been, hitherto, very 
uncertain and precarious in most places ; and, in 
many instances, been abandoned, under the idea that 
it u cannot be cultivated," owing to local causes en- 
tirely discordant, either with the theory or practice, 
of those who know anything relating to the culture 
of the plum tree. Some assert it will not flourish 
on the sea-shore, and others, to the contrary, that it 
will not flourish in inland places. Heat, cold, dry 
seasons, and the like, have been considered as inju- 
rious to the well being of the plum. For my own 
part, I do not think that either of these causes is the 
true reason of its failure ; and I have had very many 
just reasons to believe that the plum will flourish in 
almost any district of the United States, provided 
a proper location be chosen for it. In Albany, and 



/ 



THE PLUM. 



93 



many places on the North River, the plum has done 
admirably well many years ; in Charlestown, Mass., 
fine specimens of the White Gage, Bolmar's Wash- 
ington, &c, have been exhibited by Mr Johnson for 
several years ; and in Cambridgeport, near Boston, 
Mr Pond's plum garden has long been celebrated, 
and last year, 1838, his show was particularly fine. 
Newark, N. J., and many other places, might be 
quoted in the same manner. In Europe the same 
inference may be drawn as to locality. 

The plum never does well only when grown in its 
peculiar soil, and in that case it seldom fails, in a 
warm or moderate climate :— The location best 
adapted to the plum, is that of a low moist place, 
where there is a depth of rich black earth, and where 
the roots can always be in a moist situation. In 
such places the plum tree makes rapid growth for 
two or three years after planting, and then commences 
a bearing state, which continues for some years. 
On this soil, and gravelly or sandy bottom, the tree 
when planted makes feeble growth, and forms fruit- 
ing buds, or spurs, on almost all its branches, which 
bear numbers of fruit, that either drop off when 
small or ripen with a bad flavor ; the tree is affect- 
ed with knobby protuberances, containing a worm 
called the curculio, which is created more by the 
poverty of the tree than anything else ; the fruit, 
too, often swells, without forming the stone, into an 
ill formed yellow fruit, and drops off when in a grow- 
ing state. The main cause of these, is owing to the 
roots of the tree being in a situation too dry ; and 
the flow of sap not being sufficient for the nature of 
the tree. 

I shall not go through the routine of the propaga- 



94 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



tion of this tree, as it is precisely the same as the 
cherry, with the exception of a different soil as 
stated above. But let me here caution the reader 
against the very improper method often practised of 
inoculating the plum into peach stocks. This me- 
thod produces fine young trees, that seldom or never 
bear fruit. With this precaution, I shall proceed to 
give a few hints relative to the culture of the plum. 

The plum I consider a domestic tree. By this I 
mean that it will thrive around dwellings either in 
town or country. It will flourish well, if planted 
near where the sediments of soap suds, &c. are 
continually running or accumulating. Trees planted 
near heaps of stones, or pavements, where the soil 
is good underneath, will flourish and bear well. Re- 
claimed land near rivers, or on the seaboard, or 
where places have been filled up several feet with 
rich earth and manure, are locations well adapted to 
its.growth. If such locations are a little sheltered 
the better, for being much exposed to the sun I do 
not think is of any advantage to its growth. In the 
culture of the plum a very false system is often 
adopted : that of heading in the luxuriant shoots of 
the young wood of young trees, when they are 
growing in a suitable location. This shortening is done 
with a view to throw the tree into a bearing state, 
when the only thing effected by the method is, that a 
number of shoots are thrown out, and the tree forms 
a thick bushy top of small weak branches, and never 
makes so large and handsome a tree as it would if it 
had been left to nature. Plum trees should never 
be pruned when growing as standards, only when 
the wood is too thick and then the weakest wood 
should be cut out. 



THE CHERRY. 



95 



Art. 2. — On the Culture of the Cherry. 

The cherry is a native of Great Britain, France, 
most parts of Europe, and America. The species 
are few, and varieties are not so numerous as the 
apple, pear and many kinds of fruit. 

The cherry is used as a dessert when ripe, and 
considered wholesome ; it is used in many ways in 
domestic cookery, and when ripe makes a very 
pleasant wine. 

New varieties of the cherry are obtained from 
seed in the same manner 'as other fruit. The 
method of propagation is by raising young plants 
from seed and planting them in nursery rows, and 
grafting or inoculating them as directed in the nur- 
sery. 

The cherry will thrive in more varieties of loca- 
tion and soil than almost any other kind of fruit ; 
a dry, mellow, loamy soil, with a tolerably dry 
subsoil, on a side bank is the best adapted, and will 
be found to answer the best purpose for its growth. 
In many cases the cherry will answer an excellent 
purpose as an ornamental tree at the side entrances 
of a dwelling house, and in some instances I have 
seen avenues formed of the upright growing kinds 
which have had a very pretty effect, besides pro- 
ducing abundant crops of fruit. 

The wood of the cherry tree is used for an excel- 
lent purpose by the cabinet maker in manufacturing 
articles of domestic furniture, as tables, chairs, and 
several articles of ornament ; and its fruit may be 
said to be of the first order for domestic pur- 
poses. 

There are few kinds of eatable fruits which have 



i 



96 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



retained their different varieties so long and uniform 
as the cherry, and in which a few varieties will 
serve to answer every purpose in domestic cookery, 
and please almost every palate as a dessert. The dif- 
ferent varieties of the Tartarian, which undoubtedly 
originated in and received their name from Tartary, 
can be dated back two centuries, and the same may 
be said of the Kentish red cherry and many kinds of 
the " heart" which probably received their first 
name from their original locality and the form of 
the fruit. 

Art. 3. — On the Culture of the Peach. 

The Peach is a native of Persia, France and 
other temperate climates, and in many parts of the 
United States. Wildings spring up from seed and 
produce tolerable good fruit in propitious seasons. 
Indeed there are few kinds of fruit which produce 
better from the wildings than the peach, and hence 
many trees are planted and never worked with the 
superior kinds, which however, is a system not to 
be recommended, for the trouble is trifling, and the 
time lost in the growth not above a year at the most ; 
consequently good varieties of known qualities may 
be propagated and grown to the very best advan- 
tage. 

The peach is a fruit of the first order for the dessert, 
and is used many ways in domestic cookery, as tarts 
or preserves, and in the southern states is used with 
milk in its raw state after being skinned and quartered. 
The species are numerous and varieties undeter- 
mined and new varieties of acknowledged merit are 
daily adding to the list of long standing qualities of 
imported kinds. 



THE PEACH: 



9? 



The culture of the peach is generally of an easy 
nature, and the product when the seasons are favora- 
ble is encouraging, in most parts, although in the 
more northern states the trees are often very much 
injured by the winter's severity, for which no 
remedy to my knowledge can be applied in any 
satisfactory manner. In the vicinity of Albany, X. Y. 
I have seen peach trees laid down and covered with 
soil as the grape vine, but the system has rarely 
answered a good purpose, for in bending down the 
tree the roots have to be loosened on one side ; and 
besides I have noticed generally that the blossom 
buds are lost when the branches are taken up, so the 
practice fails altogether of its objecr. 

The peach is at first propagated by procuring the 
stones and keeping them in a mould during the 
winter in a box or other vessel, and in the spring 
they may be sown in rows thickly together in a rich 
soil ; when the plants are grown three or four inches 
high, they are then to be replanted into nursery rows 
two feet apart, and one foot between in the row ; 
this removal must be made in moist weather or the 
plants will not root freely in the soil. 

In the operation of pruning, care must be taken to 
cut the branches off clean, and shave the rind with 
a sharp knife in order that it may heal freely. All 
dead wood and small, weakly branches may be cut 
out, and the tree regulated in such a manner as to 
have an equal proportion of wood. There is no 
tree that naturally divides itself into a more regular 
habit than the peach, but it is generally seen to grow 
too much at top, and consequently the branches are 
much diminished in the centre. This is to be 
counteracted by pruning the top spike of the leading 
7 



98 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



branches back to a side shoot, which will give more- 
succor to the centre of the tree. 

Where strong, luxuriant shoots of one year old 
are seen growing from the centre of the tree, or 
when any shoot has been broken off, they may be 
pruned, as they rob the smaller fruit bearing branches 
of their proper nutriment. 

Summer Pruning. — The peach, like all other 
trees, requires some attention in the summer as to 
regulating any superfluous branches that may appear, 
and destroying insects. If it so happens, which 
is very seldom the case, that too great a quantity of 
fruit sets and swells, it may be thinned to give that 
which is left on the tree a better size and flavor. 



CHAPTER IV, 

CULTURE OF POMIFEROUS FRUITS. 

Art. 1. — On the Culture of the Apple. 

The apple may be considered the staple fruit of 
America ; and its well known properties in domestic 
uses render anything that can here be said in recom- 
mendation, entirely useless. The wild apple or 
crab, is found growing spontaneously in most parts 
of North America and Europe, and w T e have varie- 
ties from Siberia, called the Siberian crab, which is 
more grown as an ornament than for any useful pur- 
pose. There are several species of the apple, and 
the varieties are numerous and undetermined, which 



/ 



THE APPLE. 



99 



are yearly increasing by seedlings, some of which 
are procured by culture, and others are the acciden- 
tal sports of nature. The latter of these are the 
most rare, but long experience has abundantly proved 
that many of the very best, kinds of fruit have been 
procured from u wildings," or accidendal sports of 
superior kinds from the crab. Indeed it may pret- 
ty safely be asserted that the types of most of the 
best kinds of fruit now extant, have been at first ori- 
ginated from this sporting of the primitive to a su- 
perior kind. 

The apple is so generally cultivated, and its use- 
fulness rendering it eligible almost everywhere, 
there is not that due attention paid to its selection 
and culture, that it merits. The apple is strictly 
speaking very local in its nature, by which I mean 
different varieties thrive and produce much better in 
some districts than in others ; this fact although 
clearly evident and undisputed by any person that 
has travelled through different countries and dis- 
tricts, where the apple flourishes and is grown in 
large quantities, has never to my knowledge attract- 
ed the attention of pomological and horticultural 
writers sufficiently to induce any one to compile a 
treatise on fruit, which shall point out the origin and 
particular districts in which many valuable fruits can 
be grown to perfection, in a manner that would en- 
sure those who planted, a certain and sure revenue 
from their product. A work of this kind, written 
by a careful observer, acquainted with the nature and 
culture of fruits adapted to this country, could not 
fail of being well received ; and the author w^ould 
be doing a public service much wanted. That the 
apple is local in its productiveness, we have ample 



100 FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



proof from the different kinds finding their way to 
market as a matter of profit, in various parts of the 
State. Hence the Baldwin and Roxbury russet are 
found in abundance in the Boston market in the fall, 
and are an important article of exportation from that 
port to South America and the West Indies, be- 
sides furnishing the winter stock for every family in 
its vicinity. These varieties flourish about fifty 
miles parallel to the seaboard of Boston, when they 
cease to be plentiful. Most likely both first origina- 
ted from the primitive fruit in the neighborhood of 
Boston. The New York Russet, Greening, &c, 
bear the same testimony in growth and appearance 
in the market ; the cider for which Newark, in the 
Jerseys, is so famous, is made from two kinds of 
cider apples, the Harrison and Campfield, which no 
doubt are natives and congenial to the soil peculiar 
to that part, as they flourish only to perfection about 
thirty miles on the border and parallel with the river 
Passaic. 

The same peculiarity also prevails with the differ- 
ent kinds of apples in Great Britain ; for in the Lon- 
don markets are to be seen the different kinds that 
are the most productive in the different parts, as for 
instance the old variety of Nonpareil, so celebrated 
as a table fruit of the first order, is mostly grown in 
the county of Kent *; as is the Loans Pearmain, the 
Lemon Pippen, and many other kinds that are a 
principal item in the markets. Now when these 
kinds are grown in any other parts of England, they 
do not give such yearly produce, and when trans- 
planted hither, it is seldom seen that they give any 
fruit ; and the trees do not flourish well, which is 
simply owing to their being out of their natural cli- 



/ 



THE APPLE. 



101 



mate and location. The same thing happens with 
the choice kinds of American apples when trans- 
ported to Great Britain ; they seldom do well, nor 
can it be expected. The same local nature also ex- 
ists in the pear, the plum, and most fruits in a cer- 
tain degree, although in some cases the reverse 
is seen ; for the green gage plum flourishes in 
France, Great Britain, and in most parts of the 
Northern States. The red and white Dutch cur- 
rant, are natives of Holland, and have been known 
for two hundred years. They flourish in all parts 
of the Northern States, Great Britain, &c. alike, and 
give 6ne fruit, and have no appearance of being run 
out or depreciating in their quality, whilst many 
fruits we find are local to a certain district. 

There are two methods which may be adopted in 
the culture of the apple to advantage. One, the 
most general, is that of cultivating for the orchard, 
which requires a system of forming the tree, when 
young, in a strong luxuriant manner, in order that 
when fully grown the tree may fill a large space, and 
under this process we may strictly rank orcharding. 
The other method, is that of dwarfing trees into a 
low habit, so that the trees may be with propriety 
introduced into the garden and give a produce so 
that an under crop may be certain, or at least that 
they may not occupy but a very small space of 
ground. Now as each of these methods must be so 
managed, that the trees are in a healthy state, there 
appears to be some art or knowledge required to 
manage the thing with propriety. And here we 
find another desideratum in the culture of fruit, 
which at some future time will perhaps employ the 
pens of distinguished writers on pomology, namely. 



102 



FRUIT GARDEN" COMPANION. 



a definite rule which shall explain the characteristics 
of certain varieties of fruit trees 9 to be worked for 
the purpose o f giving a different stature to any va- 
riety when inoculated or ingrafted on the wilding or 
crab. That this is satisfactorily known by many 
who have devoted their time and talents to the cul- 
ture of fruit. I have no reason to doubt ; but I have 
seen nothing communicated to the world through 
the press to any extent on the subject. 

Art. 2.— On the Culture of the Pear. 

The pear tree is found growing spontaneously in 
Great Britain, France, Flanders, and most parts of 
Northern Europe and America. Its species fre 
numerous and varieties undetermined, which have 
been highly improved by the energetic and long 
experimental perseverance of scientific pomologists 
of di~ere:;: countries, among whom Van Mens of 
Belgium, and Knight of Great Britain, have been very 
conspicuous. The results of their experiment have 
put the world in possession of many fine varieties, of 
this fruit which never would have made their ap- 
pearance without such experiments reduced to prac- 
tice under the most sciectific principles. To this 
may be added many fine varieties which have origi- 
nated from an accidental birth or sport of nature of 
which the Chaumontelie and the St. Germaine are 
of the most ancient date. The Seckel, Cushing, 
Preble. Lewis, and many others, are proved to be 
the accidental births of this country ; and the same 
remark might be made of pears which are indigen- 
ous either by accidental birth or pomological exper- 



A 



THE PEAR. 



103 



iment in every part of the world ; they are generally 
found to be natives or wildings. 

The pear forms a conspicuous item in the dessert, 
and is admired for its rich juicy qualities more as a 
table fruit than for domestic cookery, although the 
autumnal and winter kinds are used for stews, pies 
and other domestic purposes. 

Soil and location. — The soil best adapted to the 
pear is a deep rich mellow loam, approaching to 
that of clay. If the pear tree is planted in a soil 
where the surface earth is thin and the subsoil of a 
barren sand or gravelly nature, it rarely grows to 
any perfection for many years together ; for the 
roots generally strike deep for their ' support and 
draw moisture during the summer from the subsoil, 
and consequently on poor gravelly bottoms the roots 
cannot extract their wonted nutriment of hot dry 
summers, and hence the fruit does not come to its 
maturity, more owing to poverty than anything else. 
An instance of this may be drawn from the fact that 
many fine varieties of pears bear good specimens of 
fruit in the vicinity of Albany, owing to the subsoil 
being a cool moist clayey bottom, that do not bear 
well in New York and in the New England States. 

The location should be chosen in a sheltered place, 
for in a too much exposed situation it is rare that 
pear trees, the tender kinds in particular, bear good 
crops of fruit. 

The method of propagation is by raising stocks 
from seeds in the nursery as directed under the 
proper head. The pear is sometimes worked on 
the quince and white thorn when it is desired to 
have the tree of a dwarf low stature to train against 
fences or trellis, or indeed for any purpose when re- 



104 FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



quired to be of a dwarf habit and brought into a 
fruiting state in a short period after planting. 

Art. 3. — On the Culture of the Quince. 

The quince is an esteemed fruit as a preserve and 
to mix with the apple, in tarts and pies. There are 
many varieties, but few seem to flourish well for 
many years together, owing to local causes injurious 
to the tree, as the severe winters, or fire blast by 
which a great part of the tree is struck in the sum- 
mer, causing the leaves to turn red and die. 

The quince is propagated generally from the suck- 
ers which are thrown out from the roots. It is also 
propagated by cuttings in the same manner as the 
currant, and in many cases it is made use of as a 
stock to work the pear on, to bring it into a dwarf 
habit for the purpose of planting in ccoSoed places, 
as the borders of small gardens and for training on 
trellis. 

The best location for the quince is a rich low 
place where it is continually moist ; and hence it is 
that it generally flourishes well by the sides of drains 
and on the flat margins of running waters ; a good 
loamy subsoil is also of great importance to the 
quince, for I have generally found it to flourish best 
on such bottoms. 

The planting and raising the quince, to a fruiting 
tree, is attended with the same care and manage- 
ment as other fruit ; although I am of opinion that 
when in a fruiting state, it is rarely that the tree has 
due justice done to it. 

The quince is a tree that requires an annual prun- 
ing more than any other fruit tree that I am acquaint- 



THE QUINCE. 



105 



ed with ; for like the Morello cherry, it fruits from 
the last year's young wood principally. It is there- 
fore important that the young wood should be strong 
and healthy in order that the fruit set free and swell 
to a good size. To obtain this, the tree must be an- 
nually pruned twice a year, in the summer and in 
the spring. The summer pruning may be done when 
the fruit is about swollen to half its size. This is 
simply to cut out any decayed wood and the suckers 
from the stem that weaken the strength of the tree ; 
any w r eak young wood which enfeebles the fruiting 
branches, may also be cut away* 

The spring pruning I recommend to be done 
about the time the buds are beginning to expand ; in 
this pruning all the dead wood is to be cut out, and 
the thin slender shoots. The fruiting shoots which 
are of the last year's growth are then to be chosen 
and to be left regularly over the tree a convenient 
distance, say fifteen or eighteen inches apart, when 
the remainder of the young w 7 ood is pruned off in 
every part of the tree. 

Art. 4. — On the General Culture of Fruit, 

After what has been said of the culture of fruit 
trees under the different heads of the nursery plant- 
ing, and the separate divisions of the different na- 
tural families of fruit, little remains to be spoken of 
here, nor would it be excusable to again tax the 
reader's patience by reiterating a tautological expla- 
nation of the different modes of practice recommend- 
ed to be followed ; although perhaps a few com- 
ments on the general outline of culture may not be 
unacceptable to the inquiring practitioner. Leav- 
ing then the modes of propagation, planting, pru- 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



ning, and like operations, to be perused under their 
proper heads, 1 shall confine this subject entirely to 
the management of the ground of a fruit garden or 
orchard after being planted the first year. 

It is most generally the custom to crop the ground 
between fruit trees for three or four years with po- 
tatoes or different kinds of vegetables ; to this sys- 
tem there can be no objection if it is not over done ; 
but where young orchards or fruit plantations are 
over cropped so that the ground cannot be well 
cultivated between the rows, and the produce 
is taken off in such quantities as to exhaust the 
soil, the growth of the trees is very much retard- 
ed and impoverished. The under crop of orchards 
or fruit gardens should always be considered as 
a secondary consideration; and if the produce will 
merely pay for the labor, the cultivator ought to be 
contented. 

In the first spring of a new planted orchard or 
fruit garden, I recommend, if the ground has not 
been manured before planting, that it have a good 
manuring and be well ploughed or dug deep ; and 
cropped with potatoes in rows two or three feet 
apart, leaving a breadth of four feet by the rows of 
trees uncropped. Every care should be taken to cul- 
tivate the ground in the very best manner during the 
summer between the crops, and the part left by the 
trees should be kept clear of weeds and worked deep 
with a fork hoe or some tool, in order to prepare the 
ground so that the roots of the trees strike freely 
into it. 

In the fall when the crop is taken off, the ground 
should be ploughed towards the tree, beginning close 
to the stems with a shallow furrow so as not to disturb 



CULTURE GF FRUIT. 



107 



thjS roots of the trees — the next furrow may be 
ploughed deeper, and the centre part as deep as pos- 
sibly can be done. This ploughing should be so 
managed that the ground lays rather highest near the 
trees, and the last furrow, which should be in the 
centre between them, forms a drain to take off the 
surface water in the spring. 

In the following spring the ground may again be 
manured and ploughed or dug as before directed. 

As the trees increase in size and the roots send 
out their small fibres, the earth should not be 
worked so deep as to interrupt their expansion and 
progress, but the surface about the stem of the tree 
should be merely hoed and kept clean^ and the 
ground in the middle of the rows worked deeper 
until the whole of the soil is threaded over with 
roots, which will be in a few years. It is much to 
be doubted if a system of working deep among fruit 
trees is correct after the first years of planting ; be- 
cause their roots are interrupted and cut off in their 
progress, and it is a truth which admits not a mo- 
ment's question, that the roots of trees require to extend 
themselves as the top makes a progress in growth, to 
support and nourish the tree. 

I recommend that a quantity of compost as 
directed under its proper head be spread over the 
ground every other year, and the land if cultivated 
be kept clean by hoeing, raking and like culture, 
but not dug or plouged deep when the ground; is 
rooted over. 



108 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



CHAPTER V. 

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

Art. I.— Remarks on the Culture of the Vine. 

In ray remarks on the culture of the grape, I 
shall principally confine the subject to the ill effects 
of bad management, in order to throw some light 
on a more correct method of culture. In the first 
place, the grape vine is subject to many casual inju- 
ries when in a growing state, owing chiefly to the 
very porous nature of the wood and leaves, which 
render it susceptible to the mildew, red spider, &c, 
by which many crops of fruit are totally lost. What- 
ever food, impurity of air, or epidemical disease is 
present to the grape vine, it is readily imbibed by 
it, and the vine either flourishes or sickens, accord- 
ing to the presence of such food or disease. The 
roots also quickly convey any matter in a liquid 
state to the branches and most minute part of the 
vine ; hence the vine has often been resorted to by 
phytologists to investigate the circulation of sap, 
which has given rise to many useful facts, by charg- 
ing the sap-vessels of the w 7 ood with colored fluids, 
which have been traced through the different chan- 
nels, to the leaves and most minute parts. 

The mismanagement of the grape vine may be 
frequently traced to the neglect of summer pruning, 
particularly in city gardens, where it generally is 
cultivated on arbors or trellis ; for when the vine is 
allowed to grow without any restraint, or summer 
pruning^ it seldom brings its fruit to any perfection, 



/ 



THE ORAPE. 



109 



nor grows in a healthy, vigorous manner. This de- 
fect is chiefly owing to the wood growing too thickly 
together ; the consequence is, that it is of a soft 
sappy nature, and not in a proper state either to bear 
fruit the following year, or hardy enough to bear the 
severity of winter. This fact may be easily ascer- 
tained by an intelligent person who will take the 
pains to examine vines in the fall, so treated ; the 
young wood will be found of a soft sappy nature, 
when it should be hard, to ensure fruit the following 
season. Vines which have not .been summer pruned, 
are generally so thick of young wood that the sun 
and air are partly excluded from the under branches, 
which are, consequently, weak, the fruit small and 
of an inferior quality, with many of the berries rot- 
ting from the bunches, owing to their being too 
much shaded. If the vines are allowed to remain 
thus, the fruit will not ripen, and therefore it will 
not obtain its proper quality, consequently it will be 
unpleasant to the taste and umvholesome. 

Art. 2. — Soil and Location. 

The soil best adapted to the grape vine, is that of 
a rich loamy nature , with a portion of sand ; but al- 
most any natural soil will grow the native grape, if 
richly manured, on condition that the subsoil is dry. 
Wet bottoms are in all cases injurious to the growth 
of the grape vine. It is held as a general rule by 
some grape-grow T ers, that vines, when cultivated in 
the open air, should have a site chosen on an eleva- 
tion, as on a hill side facing the south. I am well 
aware that such locations are generally chosen in the 
grape districts of Europe ; but, observation has 



110 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION 



giv^n me reason to thick that a well sheltered situa- 
tion, with an open exposure to the south, on a level 
surface, will answer the best purpose in this country. 
If the season is favorable to the growth of the grape 
in this country, it will ripen in any exposed situation ; 
if it is unfavorable, then it seldom ripens in the most 
favorable aspects ; for it is the spring frost that 
hurts the young growth and often the blossom of the 
grape ; and, if a cold moist summer follows, neither 
the fruit or wood ripens till late in the fall, and if 
early frost appear, then neither fruit nor wood is 
properly ripened. The Isabella, and most native 
grapes, I have noticed to thrive and bear best in 
towns and cities on trellisses, situated on a southeast 
aspect, and I have also noticed that the elevated lo- 
cation of such places have not been so congenial to 
them as flat bottoms : this may be accounted for by 
the latter situation being less subject to the influence 
the sun and air and sudden changes the effects of 
which are more severely felt on high locations. 

Art. 3. — Prop-g^.c-n of the Grzpe rim. 

There are many methods by which the grape vine 
is propagated or increased, as by the single eye, the 
cutting, the layer, and by seed. The most simple 
and successful, is by cuttings of the young wood, 
three or four eyes or joints long, which are inserted 
about half way in the ground, in rows eighteen 
inches apart, and six inches apart in the rows. The 
manner of performing the work is to prepare the 
ground well, by digging, &c, then set a garden line 
and insert your cuttings regularly by the proper dis- 
tance, closing the ground well about them with the 
foot. 



THE GRAPE. 



Ill 



The management of the cuttings of the first year 
is simply to keep the ground clean and well culti- 
vated. 

If a shady location is chosen for the cuttings, they 
will root the better, many being lost in this climate, 
by drought. The best time of setting them is in the 
spring, when the frost has disappeared. 

Second year's culture. — If the young plants are to 
remain the second year in the nursery, (which is by 
far the best method,) they should be pruned about 
the beginning of March, by cutting off their shoots 
to two or three eyes ; when the ground is open, if a 
quantity of good, rotten manure be thrown between 
the rows and neatly dug in, the plants will be much 
benefited. When the young shoots begin to grow, 
they are to be finger-pruned by breaking ofT all the 
shoots to three or four * one of the strongest of 
these will require to be trained to a stake, and the 
others shortened when they are from one foot to 
eighteen inches long. 

The ground between the vines will require keep- 
ing clean and the plants to be often looked over during 
the summer, and divested of their dead and sickly 
leaves, and any insects or other nuisance that may 
be hurtful to their health — and every means of good 
culture should be applied to grow them strong and 
vigorous. 

Art. 4. — Preparing the Ground and Planting. 

In all cases where the grape is to be planted, the 
ground should be well prepared, by putting on to it 
a quantity of rotten manure, and well ploughing or 
digging it to a proper depth. 



112 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



Every precaution should be taken to take up the 
young plants without cutting the roots too near the 
stem. The roots should be traced and left at least two 
or three feet from the stem. When the plants are 
thus carefully taken out of the ground, they should 
be laid in a regular manner in the hole, about the 
same depth in the ground as in the nursery. Having 
planted the vines carefully, nothing more is required 
but to remind the planter, that good culture is always 
to be attended to, by digging, keeping the ground 
clean, and good management. 

Art. 5. — Summer Pruning of the Grape. 

The proper method of summer pruning the 
grape vine, is simply to regulate the young wood 
in such a manner that the sun and air has free access 
to every part of the vine ; those parts of the vine 
that are not so exposed, cannot obtain their proper 
quality, as the leaves of vines are analogous to the 
lungs of animals, and imbibe the air in a similar 
manner, therefore the quality is more or less perfect 
in proportion to its free exposure, and the young 
wood is the same. This may be clearly seen by 
examining a vine thickly covered with wood, the ex- 
treme branches of which are always healthy, because 
they have the benefit of the sun and air and every 
thing congenial to them. But, those which are 
thick and shaded are very weak, the leaves thin, turn 
yellow and decay ; the wood is soft, green, and sap- 
py, and perishes in the winter, and is therefore use- 
less : the bunches of grapes that are under the 
branches of the vine have small berries, and many 
of them drop off after rain and moist weather, and 



THE GRAPE. 



113 



those that remain are not well colored nor well fla- 
vored ; this is the effect of the absence of sun and 
air. 

The regular process of summer pruning the grape 
vine is to commence early in the spring, as soon as 
the young shoots are grown three or four inches in 
length. The first thing to be done is to take off all 
the weakly shoots where two or three are growing 
together in clusters, leaving but one, the most healthy 
and vigorous. (This is termed finger-pruning.) 
The next operation is the stopping the wood, which 
is performed by nipping it off between the finger 
and thumb two joints above the bunches of grapes, 
which are at this time to be seen in all parts of the 
vine : but care must be taken to leave strong, healthy 
shoots in a regular manner in every part of the vine, 
for young bearing wood for the next year without 
stopping. These shoots should be left about eighteen 
inches apart in every part of the vine. In this oper- 
ation the shoots should be regulated at their proper 
distances and neatly tied with bass matting or strings, 
and the young wood and bunches of fruit should be as 
much as possible so placed as to have free access 
to sun and a r. 

When the young wood is properly regulated at 
equal distances, so that every part enjoys the sun and 
air, the after management is to take away all dead, 
decayed leaves, and keep the vine in every respect 
in a clean and healthy state. The lateral shoots 
should also be broken or nipped off at different 
times, that the vine may not be weakened by them. 
Lateral shoots are those w T hich grow from the eyes 
of the young w T ood, and are of no use to the vine 
either at this time of growth or the next year's 
8 



114 FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



fruiting wood, but draw a portion of substance from 
it in proportion to their number ; hence the utility of 
removing such shoots. In taking off laterals care 
must be taken to nip them off one eye from the main 
or longitudinal shoot: this is one grand point in 
summer pruning, which is often improperly done by 
nipping them too close ; the consequence is, that 
the eye bursts and grows at an improper season 5 
which causes a barrenness the next year, owing to 
the neglect of leaving a proper bud, to carry off the 
superfluous sap, which is effected by leaving an eye 
on the end of the lateral, from which the current of 
sap is kept in motion ; the laterals must be often 
taken off and the bunches thinned when the fruit is 
as large as small peas. 

The method of thinning is to leave the bunches 
as regular as possible in every part. One bunch 
should be left on a shoot of the present year's wood, 
where the branches are w T eak, and two on those of 
stronger growth ; and no more than two in any place. 

The benefit arising from thinning the bunches is 
this ; the grapes are better flavored and the fruit 
finer ; the wood is also better ripened, and more 
vigorous, and every way better for fruiting the follow- 
ing season. 

Winter pruning. — Pruning the grape vine has 
been held in such consideration in Europe, that dif- 
ferent systems have been resorted to, and applied as 
a correct theory of art. They are the Thomeroy, 
the Spurring, and the Caning. 

The Thomeroy is performed by forming the vine 
in such a manner that the old wood always remains 
forming the frame, and all the young wood is cut into 
two or three eyes for fruiting. 



/ 



THE GRAPE. 



115 



The Spurring is performed by cutting the vine so 
that spurs of the young wood are left from two to 
three eyes regularly over the vine for fruiting ; and in 
different parts the wood is cut to one eye for throwing 
out young wood. 

The Caning system is performed by managing the 
vine so that the fruit is produced from canes of 
young wood, four or six feet long, which are cut off 
every alternate year ; and other shoots are regularly 
trained to take their places. Experience has taught 
me, that a medium plan between the spurring and 
caning system is the best. 

The best time for pruning the grape vine is the 
middle of February, when the severity of the winter 
has acted on it so as to injure the soft wood, which 
is incapable of producing fruit. 

The first consideration in pruning is to have a 
sharp knife, in order that the wounds where ampu- 
tations are made, may be clean and smooth. All the 
soft and small wood must be taken out, and then a 
portion of the old, in such a manner, that the vine 
is regularly supplied in every part with young wood. 

The principal object to be kept in view is to leave 
proper wood for fruiting, which is that of the last 
year's growth : the old wood serves as a main lead- 
er or frame of the vine. In selecting the fruiting 
wood, care must be taken to leave that which is well 
ripened ; the eyes should be plump and well formed, 
and so that every part of the vine is well supplied, 
about two feet apart, with young fruiting wood, the 
shortening of which must be according to their qual- 
ity, to about ten or fifteen eyes of young wood, 
well hardened, which will be discovered by cut- 
ting it ; if the part intended to be left is not hard 



116 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



and well ripened, it should be cut lower until you 

are satisfied. 

Having thus selected your fruiting wood, the next 
consideration is to leave eyes for the next year's 
wood, which is done by cutting the shoots of last 
year's growth to two or three eyes, from which a 
supply of young wood will be obtained for summer 
training, as before directed, for the next year's fruit- 
ing. When the pruning is completed, the wood 
must be neatly tied with bass mat, or other string, to 
the trellis, and if any loose bark or rubbish be about 
it, it should be cleaned away. 

Naturalizing the foreign grape. 

Art. 6. — Growing the Grape from Seed. 

It is little to be doubted that the native grape, as 
well as other fruits indigenous to this country, will 
be at no very distant day. much improved by rais- 
ing new varieties from seed, especially if the native 
varieties are crossed by the foreign, as. the native 
Isabella with the foreign Black Hamburgh, and the 
Scupernong with the White Sweetwater, Cbasselas, 
&c. of Europe. 

From this crossing it is very probable that the 
flavor of the native varieties will be much improved, 
and at the same time they, being natural to the cli- 
mate, will retain all the hardy qualities requisite to 
the country. It is much to be hoped that every 
encouragement will be given to such persons as enter 
into raising seedling grapes of the country . such 
persons should be patronized by premiums from 
the different Horticultural Societies, which would 
stimulate many to embark in a business that would 



THE GRAPE. 



117 



be really useful to all classes of people. When it 
is recollected that the crab apple is the primitive of 
all the fine varieties of apples now extant, which 
have been worked up to a fine quality mostly by cul- 
ture and seedlings, it is as reasonable to suppose that 
the same improvement is to be made on the grape, 
in a few years. A trial will most probably justify 
these remarks if properly and per severingly followed. 

In trying the experiment, I would recommend that 
the Isabella grape, when in flower, be impregnated 
with the foreign grape, as the- Black Hamburgh ; or, 
perhaps, the Burgundy would be more proper. 
From the seed of these grapes raise young-vines by 
sowing it in pots of rich soil, early in the spring, and 
plunge the pots in a moderate hot-bed the beginning 
of March. When the young plants are well rooted, 
plant them in rows, eighteen inches apart, and train 
and manage them as directed, art. 3. When the 
seedlings are in a fruiting state, I recommend that 
the best varieties be selected for seed, and the same 
experiment be followed through three or four gener- 
ations, until the desired object be obtained of pro- 
ducing varieties that are well flavored and ameliorated 
to the climate. 

Art. 7. — Naturalizing the Grape by Cutting, and 
Grafting. 

While I am on the subject of naturalizing the 
foreign grape, it may not be improper to give some 
hints on the probability of its being much facilitated 
by a continual raising of young vines, yearly, from 
cuttings ; and grafting on the native varieties. 

The experiment I would recommend to be tried 



118 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



is, by first propagating the Black Hamburgh or 
White Sweetwater, from cuttings taken from a heal- 
thy vine, as near as possible to the root. The cut- 
tings, I recommend to be of the last year's wood, 
and that which is hard and short-jointed ; put the 
cuttings into a rich soil, in an open, exposed situation, 
where they may have the free access of sun and air 
and the changes of the season ; the plants should be 
distinct by themselves so that nothing may retard 
their strong and healthy growth. Every facility 
should be given to encourage their growth, and any 
insect or disease that attacks them, if possible, be 
expelled. One shoot only should be allowed to 
grow from the cutting, trained to a stick, and not 
be allowed to lay on the ground, as it will be liable 
to be infected with mildew or other disease, 

From the young wood of the vine, next to the old 
wood, the following spring, take another cutting from 
each plant of three or four eyes, which strike and 
manage as before recommended, throwing away the 
mother plant which will be useless in this process. 

The same process may be continued for ten or 
fifteen years, w r hen it is very probable the vines from 
the plants of that generation will be much natural- 
ized and less subject to the disease natural to the cli- 
mate. 

Another process may be tried by grafting the for- 
eign grape upon the native varieties taken from 
woods, by cleft-grafting, which should be done close 
to the ground. The young shoots from the graft 
may be managed as directed for the cuttings ; and a 
new plant grafted yearly from the part next to the 
stock, on a fresh plant of the native vine. 

In throwing out the above hints, I cannot pretend 



THE GRAPE. 



119 



that a certainty of gaining the desired purpose of 
naturalizing the foreign grape can be vouched from 
any practical authority or experiment that has been 
made under my knowledge ; but from an actual ex- 
perience of many plants that have become hardened 
and naturalized by nearly the same treatment, I see 
no reason why the grape may not be brought to 
stand the climate in the like manner. 

Art. 8. — Diseases of the Grape. 

From general observation and many experiments 
I have been fully convinced that the native grapes, 
here recommended, when well cultivated, are sel- 
dom injured either by disease or insects, that most 
kinds of eatable fruits are subject to ; and that most 
kinds of foreign grapes, on the contrary, are affect- 
ed by many diseases and insects, in a manner that 
will ever discourage their culture in the vineyard or 
open exposure, unless they can be naturalized to the 
climate. On a deliberate examination of the grape 
vine, T think the above remarks may be fully au- 
thenticated, and it will be found that the native 
grape vine is naturally of a more hardy and compact 
texture in its wood, leaves, berries, and indeed, in 
every part, than the foreign varieties : hence mildew 
and insects are not so likely to infect the native as 
the foreign grape. I am firmly of opinion that 
the casualties that happen to the grape, generally are 
more owing to the feeble nature of the vine, than 
any blights or insects that attack it at any period of 
its growth, although at the same time I am aware 
that the most healthy vines are often affected by 
disease and insects, in a greater or less degree. By 



120 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



comparing the leaves of the native and foreign grape, 
it will be seen that the former are of a much firmer 
and more compact nature than the latter, and per- 
haps, as nature is ever perfect in her works, such 
leaves do not either perspire or respire so freely as 
those of the foreign grape, that are of a softer and 
more succulent nature ; and hence we may infer that 
the sudden changes do not act so injuriously on the 
native as on the foreign grape. The wood of the 
foreign grape is rarely well ripened in the fall, and 
has generally more pith than the native ; therefore, 
supposing it was not attacked by disease in the sum- 
mer, the winter's severity and sudden changes would 
naturally act very severely on it, particularly on a 
southern aspect, where the sap is liable to be often 
frozen and thawed during the winter and early part 
of spring, which must certainly burst some of the 
sap-vessels and cause much injury to it. 

The most injurious disease to the grape is the 
mildew, which always affects the weak and tender 
parts of the vine, as, the young leaves and tender 
branches, and from those to the bunches of grapes, 
which seldom recover when once diseased. I have 
never been fully satisfied that any cure can be made 
of the mildew when vines are much diseased ; I be- 
lieve that when once a vine is affected in any part, 
the disease is soon conveyed to every part through 
the sap-vessels, and the constitution of the vine is so 
materially injured that it takes some time to recover 
it to its pristine health and quality. 

Whether the mildew is an animalcule or fungus, 
I will not pretend to determine; but I am of 
opinion that it is at first generated by a stagnation 
taking place in the leaf, in such a manner that the 



THE GRAPE. 



121 



pores of it are stopped ; the consequence is. that an 
impure matter is present which is imbibed by the 
leaf, which contaminates the sap of the vine, and is 
thence communicated to every part of it in a shorter 
or longer period. I shall not pretend to prescribe 
any remedy as a cure : but remind my reader that 
good culture may, in a great measure, in this and 
every other case of disease, be the best remedy : 
for certain it is, that all kinds of vegetables are most 
severely injured by disease when weakly, and the 
more healthy they are, the less liable to be affected. 

Art. 9. — Select Varieties of Native Grapes. 

The native varieties best adapted for arbors, and 
general culture that I am at present acquainted with, 
are the Isabella and Cataicba. which are described 
as follows in i; Kenrick's Orchardist." a work that 
should be in the hands of every fruit grower. 

" Isabella. — This fine native grape is extraordina- 
ry for the vigor of its growth, and wonderful pro- 
ductiveness. The bunches are of a large size ; the 
berries are large and of an oval form ; the color is 
a dark purple, approaching to black, and covered 
with bloom ; the skin is thin, with but little pulp : 
the desh is juicy, rich, sweet and vinous. By hang- 
ing the bunches in a room, it has been ascertained 
that they lose that very small portion of muskiness 
they possess. This grape makes excellent wine, 
and requires no protection in this climate. 

** Cataicba. — This is an excellent grape for wine : 
the bunches are of very handsome size and form, 
and shouldered : the berries are a deep purple, next 
the sun ; the skin is thin, juicy, sweet, rich and 



122 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



vinous, with a very little of the native or musky 
taste. This vine is very vigorous and hardy, and is 
a great and certain bearer.'' 

Winnie. — This grape is much cultivated and es- 
teemed in Albany, and is similar to the Isabella ; it 
is said to have been found by a Mr Winnie, of that 
place, from whom it derives its name, and is highly 
deserving culture as a native grape of the first order. 



CHAPTER VI. 

MANAGEMENT OF THE VINERY. 

When the many good qualities which the foreign 
grape possesses are taken into consideration, it may 
be said to excel almost any fruit as yet known in the 
forcing department. Its long tested qualities as be- 
ing replete (when well ripened) with a rich, highly 
flavored, luscious juice, in connection with its hand- 
some appearance, particularly recommend it to the 
dessert, in which it has been held in high esteem in 
almost all countries, for many years. 

The produce of the grape, w T hen well managed 
and the mildew can be evaded, is always encouraging 
in the highest degree, as, in most cases, the crop 
fully compensates those who bestow hot-house cul- 
ture on it. To these, may be added, the longevity 
of the vine and a succession of fruit for the table 
when in eating, and, lastly, a very handsome appear- 
ance in a bearing state. 

Art. 1. — Planting and Preparing the Vinery. 

The preparing and planting the Vinery should be 
carefully attended to, as the future produce will 



/ 



THE GRAPE. 



123 



much depend on its being properly managed at first. 
The house may be of almost any construction ; but 
that of a moderate size is the best — one of about 
forty feet long and fourteen feet wide, in the clear, 
built in such a manner as to admit of glass three 
feet in front, and the back, which should be of brick, 
of a height to allow an elevation of 45 degrees, 
when the roof is put on, which should be all glass. 
In the inside of the house a pit may be built of brick, 
six feet wide and four feet deep. The pit may be 
in the centre of the house which will admit a walk, 
each side, of four feet wide, and the same may be 
allowed in the end. A pit of this kind may be turn- 
ed to good advantage in the winter for preserving 
lettuce, celery, and other vegetables which require 
the frost only to be kept away from them. About 
the beginning of March the pit may be cleaned out 
and a quantity of hot manure put in to make a mod- 
erate hot-bed, which, when the heat begins to rise, 
may be earthed with good soil for the purpose of 
sowing on it radish, cabbage, lettuce and such early 
salads and plants as are wanted for family use. A 
part of the pit may also be used for forcing of aspa- 
ragus, tart rhubarb or pie-plant, and any kind of 
perennial herbs, as mint, taragon. and the like ; in- 
deed, a bed of the kind may be made generally use- 
ful. The culture and heat requisite for such plants 
will also be congenial to starting the vines in a strong, 
vigorous manner. A few green-house plants may 
be accommodated in the vinery, placed on the curb 
of the pit and back of the house ; but I cannot 
by any means recommend it to be entirely appro- 
priated as a green-house to winter plants, which in 
the spring must be much injured by being shaded 



124 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



with the vines, and the heat and moisture requisite 
for the grape being quite contrary to the health of 
the green-house plants. On the other hand, the 
foul effluvia that will arise from the soil and perspir- 
ation of the green-house plants will settle and con- 
dense on the leaves of the vines and bring on a dis- 
ease ; the young bunches of grapes will decay and 
drop off, and in fact, to be candid, it is impossible 
for any person to do justice to anything so opposite 
in nature as green-house plants and the grape vine, at 
an early season. 

When grapes are intended to be grown in hot- 
houses, every other thing accommodated should be 
considered as temporary, and the grape should, in 
every way, be accommodated, as near as possible, 
to its nature, or little good can be expected. 

Location. — -I have most generally found the vine- 
ry to do best, by being located on a rising situation, 
protected at the north and north-west quarter by a 
plantation of trees or buildings. It should be so 
situated as to face to the south or south-east quar- 
ter ; but the latter I would recommend, as in that as- 
pect it will receive the morning sua, so congenial to 
the grape vine. 

Preparing the border for planting. — The border 
for the vinery may be prepared by digging out the 
soil, three feet deep, in front of the house, and from 
twelve to fifteen feet wide ; or, as wide as the vines 
have to traverse under the roof, will perhaps, be a 
better criterion, as most plants, the vine particularly, 
are found to extend their roots in the earth as far in 
length or distance as they grow in height. If the 
bottom or sub soil is wet, it will be better to dig out 
the soil a foot deeper than is requisite, and fill it up 



/ 



THE GRAPE. 



125 



with old mortar, rubbish, or anything that will drain 
off the water ; as the grape always thrives best on 
dry bottoms. When the border is thus prepared, it 
will require to be filled with compost in the month 
of September. 

Preparing the Compost. — The compost, which 
I have mostly found to answer the best purpose for 
the vinery, is a mellow loam, well incorporated with 
one third part of rotten manure, or, in order to have 
a border prepared in a superior manner, the top sod 
of a rich, loamy pasture may be taken off six inches 
deep, and thrown into a heap with one third rotten 
manure ; and if a portion of manure from a slaugh- 
ter house is added, it will answer a good purpose. 

The compost may be thrown into the pit or bor- 
der, where it may lay a month or two to get into a 
state of fermentation, when it should be turned and 
well mixed as a manure heap. This may be done 
two or three times in order to incorporate it well to- 
gether. I would also recommend about 50 lbs. of 
sulphur to be mixed w 7 ith the compost, the last time 
of turning, which will destroy many insects detri- 
mental to the vine, and act as a stimulant to it. 

Planting the Vines. — In planting the vinery ev- 
ery precaution should be taken to procure select 
kinds of grapes of respectable nursery-men, who 
can be relied on as to correctness. I have often 
seen grape-houses furnished with ordinary sorts of 
grapes, ow 7 ing to injudicious selections, which have 
been replanted at a great expense, and the loss of 
two or three year's growth, w T hich is considerable in 
such cases. The vines for planting should be at 
least tw r o years old, and if raised from the eye the 



126 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



better. * The best time for planting is early in the 
spring, about the latter end of March. The vines 
may be planted as directed, under the head of 
planting. One plant to each rafter may be planted 
outside the house, in front, in such a manner that it 
can be introduced into the house by a hole four inch- 
es in diameter, cut under the front sill directly un- 
der the rafter. 

Art. 2.— First Year's Management. 

The only thing requisite in training vines the 
first year, is to train up one shoot under the rafter 
from each vine in a straight manner, on a wire 
placed directly under it, about twelve inches from 
the glass. The lateral shoots should be managed as 
before directed, by kipping in with the finger and 
thumb nails to within one joint of the main shoot. 

Syringing the Vines.— On the mornings of fine 
clear days, the vines will require a gentle syringing,! 
and in the evening, also, when the leaves can be 
dried after the operation ; but it may always be 
omitted in moist weather, particularly late in the 
season, in order to ripen and harden the wood of the 
vines, and the house in every part should lpe kept as 
dry as possible. Particular care should be taken at 
all times to keep the house clean and wholesome, 
that a healthy internal air may always be present, 
which will greatly facilitate the growth of the vines. 

*Mr Wm McCuIlough of South Boston, has fine plants of grapes 
raised from the eye, and being a practical cultivator, the kinds can 
be warranted of the best quality. 

t A superior instrument for this purpose can be purchased of most 
Nurserymen and Seedsmen, at from five to seven dollars each. 



THE GRAPE. 



127 



Art. 3. — Second Year's Management. 

Pruning the Vines. — The vines should be pruned 
in January or February, more or less, according to 
their structure ; but the grape makes such luxuriant 
wood in this country, that I have known fine crops 
of grapes taken from the second year's growth. 
However, it is a system which I cannot recommend, 
nor, indeed, for any fruit trees or vines that are to 
acquire a large growth. If the habit is strong when 
young, it will be sure to be weakened in time. But 
I would not advise, in any case, for nature to be im- 
peded, by any process, to hasten fruiting ; which 
will always, in a measure, retard the future growth 
and luxuriance of trees, vines, &c. Therefore, the 
method that I would recommend is, to shorten the 
vines to two eyes at the end of the rafter at the front 
of the house, in order to take one or two canes up 
the second year, and the vines may be treated in 
every way as in the first year of their management. 



Art. 4. — Forcing the Grape. 

Pruning the Vines. — The first consideration in 
grape-forcing is in pruning the vines, which may be 
performed any time in the month of January or the 
beginning of February. The methods, as before 
stated, are various. The most simple and generally 
adopted in this country with the greatest success, is 
that which is recommended in art. 5, chap. v. 

Forcing the House.— Supposing the pruning to 
be performed, and the house to be begun, the latter 
end of February, or the beginning of March, — begin 
by first merely warming the flues at night, and giv- 



128 FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



ing air on a fine day, to get the house and flues in 
good order, which will be in a few days ; when the 
fire heat may be kept at night to 45°, and the sun 
heat to 60°, for a week or two, to get the sap in cir- 
culation, when the fire heat may be raised to 50° or 
55°, and the sun heat to 65° or 70°, with air, on a 
very fine day. During the process, the vines must 
be well syringed on each fine morning, and slightly 
in the evening after a sunny day, as they will, in that 
case, be in a dry condition and imbibe the moisture 
freely, which will greatly facilitate breaking the 
buds strong. The best time of syringing in the 
morning varies with the season ; early in March, the 
house should be warmed with the sun before the 
syringe is applied, or it will be much chilled by the 
operation. As the season advances, the operation 
may be performed, by degrees, earlier in the morn- 
ing, and in time it may be performed at sunrise : 
but, in all cases, it must be performed in such a 
manner that the vines will soon dry. Wet, remain- 
ing on any plant long in the process of forcing, is, 
in all cases, injurious, by overcharging the surface of 
their leaves with water ; for, in that condition, they 
are not capable of going through their proper func- 
tions of perspiration and respiration, owing to the 
pores of the leaves being stopped with water ; con- 
sequently, sickness must ensue in proportion to the 
deprivation. 

When the vines begin to break at the eye, an inch 
or two long, they are to be finger-pruned by break- 
ing off the side shoots, leaving only one, which 
should be the centre, which contains the fruit in em- 
bryo. The side shoots are what are generally called 
by gardeners water-shoots, and require in all cases to 



THE GRAPE. 



129 



be taken off at an early period, as they are injurious 
to the vine by drawing nutriment to an unfruitful 
branch. 

When the shoots begin to show fruit bunches, the 
heat may be raised at night to 60° or 65° ; at all 
events it should never be under 60° after this period. 
The sun heat may be allowed to run 75° or 80°. 

Finger Pruning. — The vines may now be finger 
pruned by taking away all useless shoots with the finger 
and thumb, and leaving the young wood as regular as 
possible in all parts of the house. The young wood 
may now be stopped where fruit bunches show one 
or two eyes from the bunch, by nipping it off a little 
above the joint with the finger and the thumb. The 
weak shoots may be stopped one joint, and the 
strong, two from the bunch. But w T here the young 
wood is wanted to fill up vacancies, the shoots may 
be left two or three feet in length to furnish such 
places. 

Regulating and tying in the young wood. — The 
next thing to be attended to is the tying in, and re- 
gulating the young wood, which should be very 
carefully done by tying in the shoots neatly to the 
trellis, with bass string, in a regular manner, so that 
every part of the vine has free access to sun and 
light. The lateral or side shoots may also be stop- 
ped one eye from the main shoot as before directed; 
and every part of the vine should be kept neat and 
clean. 

Management of the house, in fiower. — -When the 
vines begin to flower or blossom, the syringe must 
be suspended ; as moisture too plentifully applied, 
will, in a measure, injure the setting of the young 
berries or fruit, by their being damped off ; but care 
9 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION* 



must be taken to keep up a moist brisk heat, as too 
much cold retards the growth of the' young fruity 
which will be perceived by the bunches turning up 
at the point, which is always a bad sign. The bot- 
tom of the house and flues may be kept moderately 
moist in order to give a moist heat. The tempera- 
ture of the house may be kept at night, at fire heat, 
from 65° to 70°, and sun heat in the day from 80° 
to 85° with air, which may be continued until the 
ripening of the fruit. 

Swelling the fruit. — So soon as the fruit shows 
in the bunch as large as a very small pea, apply the 
syringe in a very gentle manner. It will be recol- 
lected that the fruit in this state is very delicate ; ap- 
ply the syringe, if in a partial manner on a few bunch- 
es that are set over the flue at the warm end of the 
house. When the whole of the house is well set, 
syringe regularly in the morning a little after sunrise, 
in order that the vines may get dry before it is too 
strong ; and in all cases give a little air in the least 
possible quantity at the back of the house. A brisk 
moist heat may be kept up, and the house always 
closed about an hour before sundown ; but care 
must be taken that it is not too damp, which is 
sometimes, perhaps, the cause of mildew. 

Thinning the bunches and fruit. When the 

bunches are all set, and all is going on well, the 
house may undergo a regular thinning of the bunch- 
es, and I would recommend in most cases that one 
bunch only be left on a weak shoot, and two on a 
strong. Remember you want fruit next year, and 
if you overload this, some deficiency will be in the 
next, if not the present year. The fruit will not be 
so well ripened, nor good in quality, and besides, you 



/ 



THE GRAPE. 



131 



will bring on a weakness by a heavy crop, and per- 
haps that pest of vegetation, the mildew. I must 
call your attention to thinning the fruit in the bunch, 
which will require to be done in a neat, clean, and 
expeditious manner. The time is when the fruit is 
as large as a small sized pea. For the purpose pro- 
cure a pair of scissors with long handles and narrow 
pointed blades. In the operation commence thin- 
ning the grapes at the point of the bunch, by taking 
out all the small sized berries and part of the large, 
in a regular manner ; so that e'ach will have equal 
room to swell in the bunch to its proper size, which 
must be judged according to the natural size' of the 
grape, when fully grown. In this operation care 
must be taken not to prick any of the fruit or any 
part of the bunch with the scissors, nor bruise them 
with the head, hands, or by any other means, which 
will greatly injure the growth of the berries in this 
stage. 

The vines may now be regularly gone over by 
stopping the young shoots, tieing in, and the like, as 
before directed. 

Stoning the fruit. When the fruit is grown 

nearly to its size, it will begin to swell its seeds or 
stones, which will be perceived by the grapes ma- 
king but little growth. At this time the house should 
be kept in a moderate temperature ; at night about 
65 degrees, and in the day from 75 to 80 degrees. 
The vines may now be moderately syringed, but not 
too much ; as, at this period, it will be recollected that 
the fruit is not in a growing state, and consequently, 
cannot imbibe so much moisture. When this pro- 
cess is over, which may be ascertained by cutting 



132 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION* 



the berries and finding the seed hard, the syringe 
may be more generally applied. The temperature 
may be now a little raised in order to swell the fruit 
more freely ; and every precaution must be taken to 
keep a clean and wholesome air in the house. 

Ripening the fruit.— When the fruit begins to 
color, the syringe may be suspended, and the house 
be kept dry. The temperature may be kept from 
70 to SO degrees fire heat, at night, if the fruit is in 
haste to be ripened, although 70 degrees will an- 
swer a better purpose if not in haste. Plenty of 
air should be given in a fine day in order to color 
and give flavor to the fruit ; in this manner the house 
may be managed until the fruit is all ripe and cut 
from the vine. The sashes should then be taken off 
and the house fully exposed to the sun and air, in 
order to ripen the wood previous to the ensuing 
winter, when the glasses may again be put on the 
house. 

General remarks on grape forcing. — The ex- 
perienced forcer will perceive that the heat herein 
recommended is somewhat higher than is generally 
recommended by practical forcers, who have written 
on .he grape in England ; my object in which is to 
bring the fruit to maturity early in the season, to 
evade the mildew, which in most cases is destruc- 
tive to the grape late in summer. My secondary 
object is, considering this climate of a more clear 
atmosphere, and more sun in the early part of the 
spring, admitting more external air to the hou-e, 
which should be modified by internal heat from fire, 
in which case I. have generally found the impure va- 
por ascending from internal heat is much rectified 
by the admission of the external air. 



/ 



THE GRAPE. 



133 



Art. 5. — On the Culture of the Grape in the 
Vinery. 

When the many good qualities which the foreign 
grape possesses, are taken into consideration, it may- 
be said to excel almost any fruit as yet known in the 
forcing department. Its long tested qualities as being 
replete, (when well ripened,) with a rich, highly fla- 
vored, luscious juice, in connection with its hand- 
some appearance, particularly recommend it to the 
dessert, in which it has been in high esteem in almost 
all countries for many years. 

The produce of the grape when well managed, 
and when the mildew can be evaded, is always encour- 
aging in the highest degree, as, in most cases, the 
crop fully compensates those who bestow hot-house 
culture on it. To these may be added the longevity 
of the vine and a succession of fruit for the table 
when in eating, and lastly a very handsome appear- 
ance when in a bearing state. 

Location of the the house, preparing and plant- 
ing, — The location most adapted for the vinery, 
is on a dry situation, facing to south or southeast 
quarter, well protected on the north and northwest 
quarter, with a plantation of trees or buildings and 
so situated as to have a full share of the morning 
sun, so congenial to the grape. 

The preparing and planting the vinery should be 
carefully attended to, as the future produce will 
much depend on its being properly managed at the 
first. The house may be of almost any construc- 
tion, but that of a moderate size is the best. One 
of about forty feet long and fourteen wide, in the 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



clear, built so as to admit three feet of glass in 
height in the front ; and, the back, which should be 
of brick, of a height to allow an elevation of forty- 
five degrees when the roof is put on, which should 
be all of glass, will answer a good purpose. In 
the inside of the house a pit may be built of brick, 
six feet wide and four feet deep. The pit may be 
in the centre of the house which will admit a walk 
four feet wide each side of it, and the same or more 
may be allowed at the end. 

A pit of this kind may be turned to good ad- 
vantage in the winter for preserving lettuce, celery, 
and other vegetables which only require the frost to 
be kept away from them. About the beginning of 
March the pit may be cleared out and a quantity of 
hot manure put into it, to make a moderate hot-bed, 
which, when the heat begins to rise, may be earthed 
with good soil a foot deep, for the purpose of sowing 
on it radish, cabbage, lettuce and such early salads 
and plants as are wanted for family use. A part of 
the pit may also be used for forcing asparagus, pie 
plant, and any kind of perennial herbs, as mint, jar- 
agon and the like ; indeed a bed of the kind may be 
made generally useful. The culture and heat re- 
quisite for such plants will be also congenial to start- 
ing the vines, in a strong, vigorous manner. A few 
green-house plants may be accommodated in the 
vinery, placed on the top of the pit, and back of the 
house ; but I cannot, by any means, recommend it 
to be entirely appropriated as a green-house to win- 
ter plants, which in the spring must be much injured 
by being shaded with the vines, and the heat and 
moisture requisite for the vines being quite contrary 
to the health of green-house plants. On the other 



/ 



THE GRAPE. 



135 



hand, the foul effluvia that will arise from the soil 
and perspiration of the plants, will settle and con- 
dense on the leaves of the young vines, and bring 
on disease ; the young bunches of grapes will 
decay and rot off, and, in fact, it is impossible for 
any person to do justice, to anything so opposite in 
nature as green-house plants and grape vines, at an 
early season. 

When grapes are intended to be grown in hot- 
houses , every other thing accommodated should be 
considered as temporary, and the grape should, in 
every icay, be treated as near as possible to its nature, 
or little good can be expected. 

Preparing the border for planting. — The border 
for the grapery, is generally prepared on the outside 
of the house, of the length of the front, and the 
vines are planted close to the front walk, and brought 
into the house under the sill, one vine under each 
rafter- The manner adopted is to dig out the soil 
from two and a half to three feet deep, and from 
twelve to fifteen, or as wide as the vines have to 
traverse under the roof, will perhaps, be a better 
criterion, as most plants (the vine particularly) are 
found to extend their roots in the earth as far in 
length or distance as they grow in height. If the 
bottom is wet, it will be better to dig out the soil a 
foot deeper, and fill it up with old mortar rubbishy or 
anything that will draw off the water, as the grape 
vine always thrives best on dry bottoms. When the 
border is thus prepared, it will require to be filled 
with compost, in the month of September. 

Preparing the compost. — The compost which I 
have for.nd to answer a good purpose, for the vinery 
is a mellow loam, well incorporated with one third 



136 FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 

rotten manure, or, in order to have a border pre- 
pared in a superior manner, the top sod of a rich, 
loamy pasture may be taken off six inches deep, and 
thrown into a heap ; if one-third rotten manure from 
a slaughter house is added it will answer a good pur- 
pose. 

The compost may be thrown into the pit or bor- 
der, where it may lay a month or two to get into a 
state of fermentation, when it should be turned and 
well mixed as a manure heap. This may be done 
two or three times, in order to incorporate it well 
together. I would also recommend about fifty pounds 
of sulphur or a barrel of air slacked lime to be mixed 
with the compost the last time of turning, which will 
destroy many insects detrimental to the vine, and act 
as a stimulant to its growth. 

Planting the vines, — In planting the vinery every 
precaution should be taken to procure select kinds 
of grape of respectable nursery-men, or amateurs, 
who can be relied on, for correctness. I have often 
seen grape-houses furnished with ordinary sorts 
of grapes, owing to injudicious selections, which 
have been replanted at a great expense and loss of 
two or three years' growth, which is considerable in 
such cases. The vines for planting should at least 
be two year's old, and those raised from the eye and 
rooked in pots expressly for the purpose, are the 
best* The best time for planting is early in the 
spring, about the latter part of March or begin- 
ning of April. One plant to each rafter may be 

* Fine plants of this description have been cultivated by Mr 
McCullough, of South Boston, this year, 1838; a scientific and prac- 
tical gardener, who can be relied on as to the correctness of his varie- 
ties. 



/ 



THE GRAPE. 



137 



planted outside the house, in front so that it can be 
introduced into the house by a hole four inches in 
diameter, cut under the front sill directly under the 
rafter through which the vines are to be introduced to 
the inside of the house. 



PART FOURTH. 

MISCELLANEOUS ARTICLES 

AND 

DESCRIPTIVE LISTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Art. 1. — On Gathering and Picking Fruit. 

The manner of gathering or picking fruit is by 
many persons considered of so simple a nature, that 
it requires no very particular attention. It seems 
unreasonable to suppose that choice fruit, after 
much trouble and expense in cultivation, should be 
injured in its flavor and appearance by the mere act 
of picking, and conveying even a short distance, but 
such is often the fact. 

In order to illustrate the above remark, it will be 
proper to direct the attention of the reader to sub- 
jects which may be duly investigated in their proper 
seasons. 

The strawberry, one of the earliest and best 
fruits, is often not only deprived of its natural beauty 
when placed on the table, but also much of its fine 
qualities by improper picking and bringing to table. 
In picking it is generally deprived of its strig, calyx, 



/ 



GATHERING FRUIT. 



139 



and receptacle, in doing which the fruit, or pulp, is 
compressed between the finger and thumb, and de- 
tached from those parts by the pressure, bv which 
the fruit is often much bruised, and injured in flavor. 
In this state it is conveyed in baskets, boxes, &c, 
to its destination, and when prepared in dishes for 
the table, it has more the appearance of a jam, than 
of a fruit from the vine to be eaten separately ; 
whilst if it had the strig and natural appendages, its 
appearance would be extremely handsome. So 
much for appearance. The next consideration is 
quality ; which is evidently partly destroyed or lost 
by the pulp being bruised and exposed to the 
air. The raspberry, the next fruit in question, 
bears the same fate, in every particular, as the straw- 
berry. That refreshing fruit, the cherry, is often 
badly treated, although in many cases its strig is 
allowed to remain. The currant, however, is worse 
managed ; the general method being to grasp whole 
handfuls of the fruit at once, some of which is 
badly bruised, others quite broken, and some 
bunches left entire, mashed with the juice of others 
which have met a worse fare. 

However custom might have sanctioned the above 
methods, I think prudence should dictate a more 
proper manner of picking and bringing to the table 
those choice fruits which are so bountifully bestowed 
on mankind. I hope the following methods will 
receive some attention from my readers, even if they 
are not inclined to adopt them. 

The strawberry, raspberry, currant, &c, I would 
recommend to be picked ivith their strigs entire, 
when intended for the dessert ; the strigs to be nip- 
ped asunder, between the thumb and fore finger 



140 FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



nails, and care taken not to squeeze the fruit in the 
operation : when picked, put it in small boxes or 
baskets, with leaves at the bottom to keep it from 
bruising, and in this manner let it be kept until it be 
removed into proper dishes designed for the table. 

Plums, apples, pears, indeed all kinds of fruit, are 
greatly injured by being deprived of their strigs in 
picking. They are not only deformed, but seldom 
keep any length of time. Any common observer 
will at once discover that the strig of fruit is intend- 
ed by nature as its handle, and therefore should not 
be extracted from it. 

In closing these remarks, I beg leave to caution 
those unacquainted with the management of fruit of 
the great importance of handling it, when gathered, 
in a careful manner ; for certain it is, that in many 
cases quantities of fruit, intended to be kept for a 
length of time, are rotted and decayed, owing to 
its being bruised when picked and put away. It is 
almost impossible to be too careful in the manage- 
ment of fruit intended to be stored for the winter. 

In picking fruit for preserving through winter, care 
should be taken that it is ripe before gathering, 
which may be ascertained by examining the kernel 
or seed, which, if black and ripe, the pulp or fruit 
will be ripe also. Having ascertained that the fruit 
is ripe, the next thing is the picking or gathering of 
it into winter quarters ; this should be carefully done, 
and, let me here remind the reader that the handling 
or taking the fruit from the tree is an operation 
which requires considerable knowledge ; and, let no 
one who does not understand the nature of this 
thing practically, despise the following hint on the 
subject. In picking fruit from the tree it should 




LIVE HEDGES. 



141 



always be the rule to take the strig with it entire, if 
possible. This is of the greatest importance where 
fruit is kept through the winter, because if taken from 
it, the rind is broken where it was united to the pulp, 
and at that place it will begin to decay, when closely 
confined, and hence soon communicate the rot to 
others, and so on until the whole is infected. 



Art. 2. — Planting Live Fences. 

When land is to be divided or enclosed for fruit 
gardens or orchards, it may be effected by planting 
live fences of different varieties of woody plants ; 
but those of a dwarf thorny nature are found to an- 
swer the best purpose in most cases, being more 
proper to guard against cattle and other intruders, 
than those without armature. 

The plants used for such purpose, are those vari- 
eties which are found to thrive well in different parts 
of the states, and if natives the better, being more 
hardy and better able to withstand the changes natu- 
ral to the climate. The European hawthorn is 
perhaps the best plant for this purpose, although it 
does not answer equally well in all parts of the 
country. In the New England States, particularly, 
this plant is liable to be destroyed by mildew and 
the borer ; but in the state of New York, it does 
much better. The buckthorn, or Rhamnus ca- 
tharticus of Linnaeus, is now much planted in New 
England, and answers the purpose admirably well. 
To this may be added the Shepardia tleagnoides (of 
Nuttal), or Buffalo tree, which I am inclined to 
think, when it has had a more general trial, will su- 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



persede anything that has hitherto been introduced 
for the purpose. The locust, white mulberry, 
sweetbriar, beach, and many varieties which have 
been cultivated for other uses, may be added to the 
list ; but, as my object is to give directions regard- 
ing live fences to enclose orchards, &c, I shall pro- 
ceed to treat on that subject. 

Sowing the seeds of 'plants for live fences. — 
The seeds of different varieties of plants for live 
fences, are generally sown in nursery rows eighteen 
inches wide and two feet between the rows, or they 
are sometimes sown in four feet beds with eighteen 
inch or two feet alleys, in the manner explained in 
the nursery department. The autumn is the proper 
season for sowing, or so soon as the seed is ripe. 
Such seeds as have a hard covering, as the locust, 
should have their outer covering softened by boil- 
ing water being poured over it, as the seed will 
not vegetate unless its covering is so softened as to 
admit air and moisture to it. 

Planting the fence. — When the young plants are 
one or two years in the nursery rows, they will be 
fit for planting. The ground intended to be planted 
should be previously prepared for it, by cleaning it 
well, and working in a quantity of good rotten ma- 
nure. The planting may be performed by stretching 
a garden line where the location of the fence is de- 
signed ; the plants may then be inserted in a single 
row, six inches apart, by the spade or dibble ; but 
the former I would recommend. The work is done 
by placing the spade parallel with the line, and 
pressing it down with the foot and hand to the depth 
required for the plant, when it is to be drawn three 
or four inches forward to admit the plant to be put in 



/ 



LIVE HEDGES. 



143 



at the cavity at the back of the spade, which is to be 
taken out, and the earth closed to the plant by the 
right foot. Two persons are required to perform 
the work, one to use the spade and one to insert the 
plants. 

The plants will require to be kept clean during the 
summer with the hoe, and the following spring a 
sprinkling of well rotted manure may be spread by 
the sides of the rows and neatly dug in with a spade. 
The next year the management is the same as re- 
gards keeping clean, &c. m The third season the 
plants may be headed down to two or three buds or 
eyes, and the ground well worked and kept clean, 
indeed young live fences of this kind should always 
be kept in the best of order. The fourth year the 
plants may be headed down to within six inches of 
the root, and the sides cut thin, so as to form a 
hedge of a narrow roof-like appearance, or, to give 
a more definite idea, like the mane of a horse. 

Training, or after- management. — When the 
plants are of a proper strength they are to be pruned 
or brushed once or twice a year — in the fall and 
spring, after the young shoots have made about six 
inches of wood. The hedge should be kept as thin 
as possible on the top, tapering from the bottom, 
which should be kept thick and above two feet and a 
half through. It should be increased to six feet in 
height which will be sufficient in most cases, but 
where it is required to be higher, it may be gradu- 
ally allowed to attain a greater height. Keeping it 
clean and a regular management the first few years, 
is the principal object that must be strictly attended 
to. 



144 



FRUIT GARB E 5 COMPANION 



Art. o. — On Protecting Fruit Trees. 

The protecting of fruit trees taken in its most ex- 
tensive sense, may be considered as a very impor- 
tant item in the culture of fruit. I have, under the 
several heads in preceding articles, pointed out the 
utility and methods of protection in a brief manner, 
when it has appeared to be essentially necessary. 
I shall here in a measure recapitulate those hints, and 
combine under one head every thing that seems of 
importance as regards the protection of fruit trees. 

In the first place, it is pretty certain that unless 
fruit trees are planted where they can be sheltered 
from the cold northern blast, little good may be ex- 
pected from their culture. By observation it will 
be seen as before stated, that where apple orchards 
are situated on ground partly high and exposed, and 
partly low and sheltered, trees on the latter will 
flourish and bear abundant crops of fruit, whilst the 
former is poor, eaten up with moss, and bears thin 
crops of poor, meagre fruit. Now, as these trees 
were all planted at one time, and received the same 
culture, it is evident the difference is partly owing to 
their beins; in the more or the less exposed situation : 
although it is certain that difference of soil has some 
influence on their growth. The same maybe stated 
of most kinds of fruit trees ; although the cherry 
bears and thrives on a poor, sandy, exposed situation 
better than any other, 

Where fruit orchards or wardens are planted on a 
flat plain land, they should be protected by planting 
a row of forest trees to break off the winds and 
storms on the cold quarter. In the management of 
this business, some judgment is required, or the evil 



PROTECTING FRUIT TREES. 145 

will be greater than the benefit. In the selection of 
trees for this purpose, care should be taken that they 
are chosen of an upright and rapid growth— thick 
and bushy in branches and leaves ; they should also 
be of that kind that do not extend their roots to too 
great a distance under the ground so as to impover- 
ish the orchard or garden they are intended to pro-- 
tect. The elm is of this kind. The best trees for 
this purpose are among the evergreens ; the pine 5 
the balsam fir, and the arbor vitae ; — the deciduous 
trees ; the sugar maple, the horse chesnut, and the 
locust, are good examples. The elm. the button- 
ball, the American lime, are all fast growing trees 
when young ; but they soon spread their roots to a 
distance and net the ground over to some distance 
about them, and finally impoverish and exhaust the 
soil to a very great degree. To this general kind of 
protection, that of a partial nature is to be consider- 
ed as protecting certain kinds of trees from the win- 
ter's severity. The foreign raspberry forms a 
prominent character in this part of the business, for 
although it flourishes and bears admirably well in this 
climate, its wood or canes do not sufBcien-tly ripen 
to bear the cold winters here ; the canes have 
therefore to be carefully bent down at the approach 
of winter, and covered with earth or other substance 
in order to screen them from the cold and sudden 
changes in winter. The foreign grape, as the 
White Sweetwater, Black Hamburgh, and other 
foreign varieties cultivated out of doors, are sub- 
ject to the same injuries, and require like care, and 
indeed in many cases if the native grape were laid 
down and partially covered in the winter, it would 
be much the better for such treatment. In some 
10 



146 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



places I have seen the peach tree bent down on one 
side and partly protected by covering earth over 
some of the branches, but it is a system I cannot 
recommend because the trouble is always treble the 
profit. In some cases trees are protected by 
covering their branches with coarse matting, as bass- 
mats or other coarse articles of that texture ; in 
others, clean straw is neatly placed and bound round 
plants, which answers a very good purpose for dwarf 
trees. The neatest manner of doing this is first to 
tie in the branches of the tree or plant closely and 
neatly together, and place the straw smoothly around 
it, which should be bound neat and tight, with 
strong yarn strings, or wisps made of basket willow 
or othfer pliable wood. 

To the foregoing remarks it may be added, that 
almost every kind of young trees require to be 
slightly protected in a nursery state. This may be 
effected by covering, with leaves, soil or horse ma- 
nure on the rows or beds; but care must be taken, 
not to cover too heavily so as to press down the 
plants. and break their stems. 

To these different methods of protection, that of 
protecting trees and vines in blosssom may be add- 
ed. This partial covering is necessary to guard off 
frost and cold cutting winds, and may be effected 
either by covering at night with mats when against 
walls or trellis, or using old netting, gause or other 
thin substance that may remain always before the 
plants or trees to break off frost, wind, and other 
detrimental causes. 



/ 



THE TOMATO 



147 



Art. 4. — Culture of the Tomaw< 

The Tomato being at the present time so much 
esteemed as an excellent fruit, and its use in cook- 
ery in various ways, as sauces, catsups, &c, 
and as a pickle when green, induces me to give 
some hints on its culture. 

The plant is an annual, and a native of a warm 
tropical climate, requiring about the same heat to 
grow to perfection as the cocumber. 

The best mode of culture, to have the plants ear- 
ly, is to sow the seed in pots in a cucumber frame, 
about the middle of February or first of March. 
When the plants have two or three rough leaves, 
they may be potted into small pots into a light rich 
soil, and treated as cucumber plants ; after they are 
well rooted in these small pots, they may then be 
shifted into smaller sized, to obtain a strong growth 
before being planted out into a fruiting bed. As 
the weather grows warm, the beginning or the latter 
end of April, the plants should be placed into a 
separate frame to harden off, and plenty of air given 
as the warm weather advances ; and finally the sash- 
es may be wholly taken oft previous to their being 
planted into an open exposure for fruiting, which is 
about the twentieth, or latter end of May. 

The situation and soil to grow the tomato early, is 
a side bank facing to the south of a poor gravelly 
or sandy nature. Prepare the ground for planting 
in the usual way by digging or ploughing. This 
done, make holes five feet apart in rows from each 
other, by taking out two shovels full of earth, 
and placing thereon the same quantity of good 
rotten manure ; then carefully turn out the plants 



148 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION, 



with the ball earth entire into the centre of the ma- 
nure, closing it well round the roots ; this done, 
place a wisp of straw, hay or long grass, around the 
stem, to protect the plant from wind, frost or other 
accidental causes that may injure it; or, some 
short litter or horse-dung may be thrown around the 
stems to protect the plants. 

The plants being thus planted, the ground be- 
tween the rows requires to be kept clear and well 
w r orked, similar to Indian corn or the potato. 

It is a great error of many persons, to force the 
tomato in a deep rich soil, in order to ripen the fruit 
early. This is altogether incorrect, as the luxu- 
riant state of the plants puts it into a state quite 
the reverse to that of fruiting ; for, when this 
is the case, the thick leafy state of the vines shades 
and prevents the fruit from ripening, besides collect- 
ing moisture in a manner that the fruit and leaves 
cannot dry freely, and eventually rot and decay. 

Many persons grow the tomato against boarded 
fences, trellisses, &c, on a south aspect, where they 
are trained in the manner of fruit trees, by thinning 
out the shoots and tieing or nailing them to the fence 
or trellis. In this management care must be taken 
that the soil is not too rich that the tomato is plant- 
ed into, nor that the vines are allowed to run too 
thickly together, either will prevent the fruit from 
ripening. 




THE PIE PLANT. 



149 



Art. 5. — On the Culture of the Pie Plant. 

The pie plant or Rheum rhaponiicum is one of the 
best substitutes we have at an early season for green 
tarts ; its flavor when cooked is a pleasant acid, 
and partakes of that of the green apple and goose- 
berry. The manner of cooking it is simple and 
most generally done by taking the green stalks and 
cutting them into small square pieces, putting it into 
crust and baking as an apple tart ; or it will make 
an excellent pudding by using it in the same way as 
the apple. Many persons also use the pie plant as a 
sauce, and stew the stalks after being cut into small 
pieces precisely the same as the apple. 

Culture. — The pie plant is increased by seed and 
cuttings ; the latter is the best and most successful 
way. The seed may be sown early in the spring 
on a rich, deep piece of ground in drills three feet 
apart : it is essentially necessary that the ground be 
made rich in order to grow the plants in a strong, 
healthy state the first yoar for planting. The cut- 
tings are increased by dividing the crown of an old 
plant into small pieces, each having a bud or an eye 
to it. These cuttings are to be planted in rows 
two feet apart the same as the seed. 

Planting out the bed for fruiting- — The rhubarb 
requires a rich, deep soil in order to grow the young 
stalks crisp and luxuriant. Therefore prepare the 
bed by manuring the ground well with a good coat 
of manure, and dig it in a good depth. This done, 
level the surface, and mark out the ground in rows 
four feet apart ; in the angle of each take out iwo 
or three shovels full of soil, and place therein 



150 5*RUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 

two or three shovels full of good rotten manure, and 
place the plant therein, healing it over with soil. 
The after management is to keep the ground well 
manured and dig it every fail, and give it the very 
best of culture. 

Rhubarb is often forced or forwarded in the 
spring by placing over the crown of the stools an 
empty barrel, and covering well around the outside 
with horse manure, old tan, or other substance to 
start it into growth early. Many other methods 
may be successfully applied, as forcing in large pots 
or tubs, in the vinery or any other glass-houses 
where the temperature is kept a few degrees above 
freezing. Where it is required early, (and nothing 
will pay better,) it may be forced in a garden frames 
To accomplish this, procure at the beginning of 
March a quantity of hot horse manure, and if a 
portion of oak leaves preserved in the fall is mixed 
with it the better, prepare the bed by mixing and 
getting the manure in a state of fermentation ; ther* 
make up the bed, place the frame over it, and put 
into six inches of light earth or old tan ; place the 
roots over it, and close the frame to draw the heat, 
and manage it in the usual manner by giving air bv 
day, covering by night 3 &c. 



/ 



DESCRIPTIVE LISTS*, 



151 



CHAPTER IL 

DESCRIPTIVE LISTS OF SELECT FRUITS, 

In forming a descriptive list of fruit, the prin- 
cipal object has been to choose those kinds that bear 
good crops, generally useful, and good in quality. 
In doing this many very excellent kinds have been 
omitted, owing to their being either tender trees or 
uncertain bearers. 

In my description I have in a measure been guided 
by the local places where the kinds recommended 
have borne well, which in many cases have been 
pointed out. And, as none have been recommended 
except those which are of the best quality, little has 
been said of their peculiar merits, nor indeed would 
it be proper to devote much room, in a small 
manual of this kind, to the science of Pomology, 
which has been done by more able hands. In 
forming my lists, I have been principally guided in 
the descriptive qualities of fruits, by Mr Manning's 
Book of Fruits, and Mr Kenrick's Orchardist, which 
I recommend to the young fruit grower as works of 
the first order for reference to the different kinds 
of fruits, and their qualities. 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF STRAWBERRIES. 

The principal object of a descriptive list of the 
strawberry in this place, is to point out the best 
bearing kinds, and those that will give a succession 



152 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



of fruit during the season. The descriptions which 
here follow are from Kenrick. 

i. Scarlet. 

" A very early variety, of an excellent flavor; 
middle sized fruit of a scarlet color, and should al- 
ways be planted as an early fruit." 

2. Roseberry. 
" An abundant bearer ; the fruit is large, conical, 
pointed, dark red, hairy, with a very short neck. 
The early fruit is sometimes cockscomb shaped ; 
seeds yellow, deeply imbedded, with ridged inter- 
vals ; flesh firm, pale scarlet, with a core ; flavor not 
rich, but agreeable, and much admired by many." 

3. Black Roseberry. 
u The fruit is of good size, obtusely conical, deep 
purplish red, and shining ; the seeds are slightly im- 
bedded ; flesh dark red near the outside, solid, but- 
tery, juicy, and of excellent flavor." 

4. Grove End Scarlet. 
u A first rate strawberry and an abundant bearer. 
The fruit is of considerable size, depressed, spheri- 
cal, of a bright vermilion color ; seeds slightly im- 
bedded with flat intervals ; flesh pale scarlet, firm 5 
with a core ; flavor agreeable and slightly acid. " 

5. Methven Scarlet. 
" Fruit very large, cordate, compressed, or 
cockscomb formed at times, or conical ; dark scar- 
let. Seeds pale yellow, not deep set. Flesh scarlet. 



/ 



DESCRIPTIVE LISTS. 



153 



very woolly, sometimes hollow ; highly esteemed 
with us." 

6. Keen's Seedling. 
" The fruit is very large, globular, or ovate, of a 
dark purplish scarlet, hairy. It sometimes assumes 
the cockscomb shape. The surface polished, seeds 
slightly imbedded ; flesh firm, solid, scarlet, high 
flavored. Introduced to the vicinity of Boston, by 
Mr Pratt. Also to this country and to notice, by 
Mr Haggerston, of the Charlestown vineyard. In 
this strawberry are combined great beauty, extraor- 
dinary size, excellent flavor, and productiveness. 
The fruit grows high, which is much in its favor. 
Raised by Mr Michael Keen, from the seed of 
Keen's Imperial, which is a good fruit but very infe- 
rior to this." 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF THE RASPBERRY. 

The raspberry, like the currant, requires but few 
varieties to have every satisfaction in the fruit. The 
Red and White Antwerp are the two best kinds, and 
have been known and introduced more than a centu- 
ry. To these may be added, the Franconia, Ma- 
son's Grape, and other superior seedlings, that have 
been introduced within these few years, and the 
double bearing for a late crop. 

1. White Antwerp. 
The canes of this variety are strong and vigorous ; 
color of the wood, a yellow brown ; leaves large and 
of a light green ; fruit large, of an oval form, or 



154 FEtJIT GARDEN COMPANION, 



much like a thimble, color dull yellow, or an amber. 
An excellent bearer. 

The fruit of this kind is the best variety known 
for the dessert, but it will not preserve well in any 
way l am acquainted with ; it is,.therefore, altogether 
adapted to the dessert. 

2. The Red Antwerp. 

The red Antwerp, like the white, bears its name 
from its place of parentage* The fruit is of an ex- 
cellent quality, and particularly adapted for preserv- 
ing into jams, jellies, and in some cases the fruit 
is mashed and made into a pleasant wine, or shrub . ; 
it is also used in domestic cookery, with the currant 
or cherry, when ripe, for the purpose of making 
tarts, and is an excellent fruit for puddings, &c* 
The Red Antwerp cannot be said to be quite 
equal to the White Antwerp for the dessert, al- 
though it is often used for that purpose, and makes 
one of the prettiest dishes of fruit of its season. 

The canes or wood of this variety is strong and 
luxuriant, of a mixture of red or brown, with pur- 
ple spines ; the leaves a dark green^ a little mottled 
or tinged with purple when at maturity ; the fruit is 
nearly the same shape as the White Antwerp, 
although, not so large ; color, a deep red ; flavor, a 
pleasant sub-acid and very delicious. An excellent 
bearer. 

3. Masotfs Seedling Grape. 

This superior variety originated with Mr T. Ma- 
son, of Charlestown Vineyard. It was hybridized 

*I have the testimony from a lady who has made use of the leaves 
of the Raspberry, that it makes a pleasant beverage, and is a good 
substitute for G. Tea.— E. S. 



/ 



BE SCRIPT! YE LISTS. 



155 



by him with the Scarlet Rockingham and Red Ant- 
werp. The fruit and plant resemble much the 
Red Antwerp, but is said to be a better bearer ; and 
has racemes or bunches of fruit like grapes, whence 
its name, Grape Raspberry. The testimony of the 
fine specimens of this fruit, shown at different times 
at the Massachusetts Horticultural Rooms, is a suf- 
ficient guarantee to recommend this variety as one 
of the best among the Raspberry. 

4. Franconia. 
One of the best red raspberries in cultivation, and 
like the Red Antwerp, embraces the good qualities 
of a dessert fruit, and preserves admirably, fit is 
enough to say that it was at first introduced, and 
generally grown by Samuel G. Perkins, Esq.. 
Brookline, near Boston, who possesses one of the 
most choice collections of fruit in the Union, 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF CURRANTS. 

Of all the useful fruits cultivated, the currant bears^ 
the least consideration in the choice of the different 
varieties ; this I cannot account for, in any other 
way than the easy and simple manner in which the 
currant can be increased and grown, has induced 
those desirous to cultivate it, to select from their 
neighbors without any regard to the different 
kinds and qualities, which are so totally different as 
to allow more than half difference in produce, be- 
sides much in quality. 

Of all the different varieties of currants, there is 
but one kind of the different colors of red, white? 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



and black, that I can recommend, which are the red 
Dutch, the white Dutch, and the common black 
currant ; it is rather singular that the superior quali- 
ties of the red and white Dutch, which have been 
known in horticulture over one hundred years, should 
not have been more generally introduced among the 
growers of fruit, as the genuine varieties are seldom 
to be met with. This must be altogether owing to 
the neglect of close attention to selection ; and in a 
fruit of such useful and domestic nature as the cur- 
rant, it is greatly to be hoped that the good kinds 
will be selected, which are the red and white Dutch, 
which, if once generally introduced, will at no dis- 
tant day have precedence over all others. Let the 
planter apply to any respectable nurseryman or fruit 
grower, for the red and white Dutch currant, partic- 
ularly, and he will at once have the very kinds he 
most desires, and the very best of currants. 

The White Dutch Currant. 

The tree is of a weeping habit, wood short joint- 
ed, and the leaves of a light green, and hairy sur- 
face ; the fruit of an amber color or dull yellow, 
large round fruit, and long bunches ; the bunches 
grow in thick clusters from the joints ; the flavor of 
a pleasant acid, agreeable to the taste. 

This variety is generally used as a dessert, for 
which it is particularly adapted — it is also used for a 
wine, but does not preserve well. 

The Red Dutch Currant. 
The tree is of a more upright habit than the lat- 
ter, and may be distinguished from the common red 
by its branches being more extended into a hori- 



/ 



DESCRIPTIVE LISTS, 



157 



zontal manner. The wood is thick jointed, the 
leaves of a dark green, fruit very dark red, ap- 
proaching a purple when fully ripe, bunches long 
and growing in clusters on the old wood, berries 
round and large. 

This variety is not so pleasant to be eaten from 
the hand as the white Dutch, but is more used in 
domestic cookery. It also makes excellent jams, 
jellies, and preserves of any kind, and is used by 
many for a domestic wine. 

The Red Champaign. 
The red champaign currant is not in general cul- 
tivation, although I consider it next in quality to the 
red Dutch. The plant is of an erect habit, luxu- 
riant growth, and good bearer ; the bunches are long 
but do not hang so much in clusters as the former 
varieties ; the fruit is round, of a large size ; color 
light red, and very transparent. 

The Black Currant. 

This variety is so well known that I need not des- 
cribe it ; the black currant should always find its 
way into every garden, for its useful qualities in 
colds, sore throat, &c, for which it is used with 
admirable success when made into jams and jellies ; 
and black currant wine has been too long known in 
sickness, for me to record its usefulness in this place. 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF GOOSEBERRIES. 



It is very difficult to give a descriptive list of the 
best kinds of the gooseberry that will answer for 



158 



FHUIT GARDEN COMPANIONc 



this climate, particularly as its culture so injuriously 
affected by the mildew, which sometimes entirely 
destroys the crop. The following kkvds are those 
which are of hardy quality, and I hope will be 
found to answer a gGod purpose in this country. 

1. Roaring Lion. 

One of the best red gooseberries, of a very large 
size ; hairy and of a dark red color ; tree of an 
erect habit, and fine grower and bearer. 

2. Wilmofs Red. 

According to Kenrick, one of the best of the 
reds — who states that it is large size, very early, of 
an excellent flavor, and incredibly productive. 

3. Early Green Hairy. (The Early Green Hairy 
Gooseberry, Green Gascoigne of Forsyth and 
Scotch Gardens.) 

Pomological Magazine, No. 22. 

This fruit I have known for twenty years in En- 
gland, and am well satisfied of its superior qualities 
as an early table fruit, to be of the first order, and 
an abundant bearer. 

It is to be regretted that it has been displaced in 
many collections, with the iron-monger and other 
small varieties of merit, by the larger kinds inferior 
in every degree. I know not of any gooseberry 
more deserving a trial of culture, than the present ; 
which, if it could evade the mildew, so detrimental 
to the gooseberry, it would be a great acquisition to 
the dessert. I give its character in full from the 
Pomological Magazine. 

" The branches grow very erect ; the leaves are 



/ 



DESCRIPTIVE LISTS, 159 

dark green, and slightly pubescent above. The 
berry is small, round, and ripens early ; the skin is 
hairy, deep green, and thin ; flavor rich and very 
sweet ; a good bearer." 

4. Iron Monger or Old Red Rough. 
An old small red variety of gooseberry, now but 
little known ; but it deserves to be cultivated as the 
best variety for preserving ever grown. 

5. Whitesmith. 
A fine large white gooseberry, and one of the best 
bearers in this country ; fruit large, oval, of a supe- 
rior flavor and the best of the whites. 

6. Early Green Hairy, 
A small early fruit, of very sweet flavor and gen- 
erally a good bearer. 

7. Crown Bob. 
A fine red fruited variety, of a drooping habit, 
and one of the best bearers of the English cultiva- 
tors. It will probably do well here. 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PLUMS. 

1. Italian Damask. 

This is one of the prettiest early plums. It has 
a dark blue skin — nearly black ; flesh yellow ; juicy 
and high flavored. Ripe in August. 

Like most of the early plums it cannot be recom- 
mended as a good bearer, but it deserves a place in 
every collection. 



160 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



2. Purple Gage. 

Fruit of a medium size, nearly round, a little 
flattened at the ends ; skin of a violet color, with 
light blue bloom ; the flesh greenish, rich and high 
flavored. A first rate freestone plum, a great bear- 
er. Ripe in August. (Manning.) 

3. Green Gage. 

The green gage is undoubtedly one of the best 
plums grown in this or any other country. The 
The tree is of a hardy habit, and flourishes well in 
any place where the plum grows to perfection. It 
is the least local fruit I am acquainted with. The 
fruit when green is used as a tart, for which it an- 
swers admirably ; when ripe it is used as a dessert, 
and is equal to any fruit of its season. 

The fruit is of a medium size, with a green skin, 
approaching to a yellow when perfectly ripe, a little 
dotted with red : flesh firm and of exquisite flavor. 
It should be eaten before it is too ripe, for then it 
in a measure loses that fine richness peculiar to it. 

4. Bhecker's Gage. 

A variety which originated with the Rev. Mr 
Bleecker, Albany, N. Y., where it grows to great 
perfection, and is esteemed one of their best plums. 
This is evidently a natural fruit, as it is often propa- 
gated from the sucker, particularly in the vicinity of 
Albany. 

This plum is of an oval form, with a skin when 
ripe similar to the green gage, " a dark yellow, with 
dark red spots or blotches ; the flesh rich and ex- 
cellent." A healthy, vigorous growing tree, and 
generally a good bearer. 



/ 



DESCRIPTIVE LISTS. 



161 



5. Duane^s Purple. 

Avery large purple plum, with a dark purple skin $ 
of a rich sweet flavor ; does admirably well with Mr 
Pond of Cambridgeport, near Boston. 

This plum is highly deserving a place in every 
collection. 

6. Bolmar's Washington. 

A very superior plum in size and flavor ; of an 
oval form, with a yellow skin, speckled a little with 
red. The tree is of an upright luxuriant habit, with 
fine dark foliage, and a uniform moderate bearer in 
all parts of the Northern and Middle States. 

"The origin (says the Pomological Magazine) 
of this variety is remarkable. The parent tree was 
purchased in the market of New York, some time 
in the end of the last century. It remained barren 
for several years, till, during a violent thunder storm 
the whole trunk was struck to the ground and de- 
stroyed. The roots afterwards threw up a number 
of vigorous shoots, all of which were allowed to re- 
main and finally produced fruit. In 1821 several 
trees were presented to the Horticultural Society, 
London, by Dr Hosack." 

7. Blue Imperatrice. 
A late French plum of medium size, remarkable 
for its hanging long on the tree, for which it is in 
Great Britain cultivated on western walls for a late 
crop. When fully ripe, and a little dried in the 
flesh, its flavor is very fine. The skin is a dark 
purple, approaching to a blue black, with a bluish 
bloom. It should be cultivated in every collection 
as the best late plum and a good bearer. 
11 



162 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



8. Damson. 

It is needless for me to describe this well known 
plum ; my only object in giving it a place here is to 
particularly recommend it to the young planter as 
the best preserving plum 5 and as deserving a place 
in every collection. 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF CHERRIES. 

In giving a descriptive list of cherries, I have 
confined it to a very few varieties, as the early, mid- 
dle, and late seasons are all that seem necessary, for 
the cherry, although one of the most pleasant fruits 
of its season as a dessert, has but little claim as a 
fruit for long keeping or domestic purposes, except 
as a preserve. 

1. Early May Duke. 
The May Duke is one of the earliest and best 
cherries, and of long repute. The tree is of an up- 
right, close, compact growth ; leaves of a dark 
green ; generally a good bearer. The fruit, when 
ripe, is of a dark red ; strigs long ; of an excellent 
flavor ; requires a warm location to bear an early 
crop. 

2. Harrison Heart. 
A fine early variety of heart-shaped fruit of an 
amber color, of a light red near the sun ; a very 
thriving tree, and an excellent bearer. 

3. Black Tartarian. 
One of the best and most esteemed varieties of 



/ 

A 



DESCRIPTIVE LISTS. 



163 



the heart kind ; a good bearer, and a handsome 
thrifty growing tree. It is rather tender, and is 
sometimes winter killed in exposed situations. 

u Fruit six lines in length, a heart shape ; at ma- 
turity black and shining; the flesh black violet and 
marbled, fine and breaking. "—Kenrick. 

4. Black Heart. 

A superior variety of the heart, and an excel- 
lent bearer. It is too well known to require any 
further notice, than to recommend it to a place in 
every collection of fruit. 

5. Archduke. 

" A large, globular formed, red cherry ; like the 
May Duke it grows in clusters ; but the tree grows 
more vigorous than that variety. An excellent 
cherry ; and a great bearer, ripening in July." — : 
Kenrick. 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEACHES. 

In the description of the following list of peaches, 
I am indebted to Mr Kenrick's " Orchardist," and 
I hope the selection will answer every purpose of 
the fruit grower. 

1. Early Anne. 

"The trees of this variety are of feeble growth >' 
the young wood is subject to mildew. Fruit small? 
white, globular; the flesh white, melting, saccharine? 
and good. The chief merit is its ripening early." 



164 FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



2. Early Purple. 
" One of the most beautiful of peaches ; encorrr 
passed by a middling suture ; of a globular form 
flattened at the base ; its height twentysix lines. 
Flowers large, and brighter than those of the Grosse 
Mignonne ; the fruit large and of a deeper red ; the 
flesh equally melting and fine, vinous and high fla- 
vored. August." 

3. Early Royal George. 
u A very large, handsome, and superior fruit, of a 
globular form ; of a yellow color in the shade, but 
of a fine deep red next the sun ; the flesh melting, 
juicy j saccharine, vinous, and most excellent. It 
ripens in August, and is one of the very best of all 
peaches, and a most productive kind." 

4. Early Red Rareripe of Rhodes. 

u The fruit is large, of a deep red color, which 
covers most of its surface ; of a globular form ; the 
flesh stained to the stone with red ; melting, juicy, 
rich, slightly acid, vinous, and excellent. An ex- 
cellent fruit, and deserves to be recommended." 

5. Red Rareripe. 
" The leaf of this tree is smooth and without ser- 
ratures ; the fruit is large, its suture deep, covered 
with minute specs or dots of red in the shade, but of 
a red color next the sun. This peach is decidedly 
one of the very best of all peaches. It ripens soon 
after the nutmeg peach, and the tree is not liable to 
overbear. Early in August.'' 



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DESCRIPVIVE LISTS. 



165 



6. George the Fourth. 
The fruit is of medium size, downy ; of a globu- 
lar form, swollen on one side ; pale yellow in the 
shade, dark red next the sun ; the flesh pale yellow, 
but red next the stone ; of a rich iand excellent fla- 
vor. This fine fruit originated, according to Mr 
Floy, in the garden of Mr Gill, Broad-street, New 
York." 

7. Noblesse. 

u The tree is of vigorous growth, and very pro- 
ductive. The fruit is generally large and round, but 
sometimes oblong, with a very small nipple ; mar- 
bled with red and dull purple next the sun ; the 
flesh is white, tinged with yellow ; white at the stone ; 
very sweet and melting, but perhaps less vinous than 
some others ; it ripens well and early. The stone 
is short, round, and very prominent, rough." 

8. Early Newingt on. 
u A beautiful fruit, of medium size, and globular 
form ; of a white color in the shade, but red next 
the sun. The flesh juicy, rich, and high flavored. 
The stone is small. Last of July." 

9. Old Newington* 

u This fruit is large and globular; pale yellow in 
the shade, but of a fine bright red next the sun, 
sometimes marbled with deeper red ; the flesh is 
yellowish white, very juicy, rich, sweet, and well 
flavored. An excellent fruit, ripening in Septem- 
ber, and productive." 



166 FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION, 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. 

1. Early Harvest. 

The best early apple of its season, and highly- 
deserving a more general cultivation. It is ripe the 
latter end of July or the beginning of August ; of a 
medium size ; flat form ; color bright yellow, or 
straw color ; flavor sprightly and pleasant acid ; rip- 
ening irregular, the earliest dropping from the tree 
as they change their color. 

The tree is of a pendulous habit, healthy, grows 
to a moderate size, and bears freely. It forms a 
principal item in the collections of apples in its vi- 
cinity. 

2. Early Bough. 

The best early sweeting I am acquainted with, 
and seems to flourish tolerably well in most parts of 
the middle states. The fruit is large and of an oval 
shape, pale yellow a little tinged with red ; an ad- 
mirable apple for baking ; tree a good bearer, and 
ripe soon after the early harvest. 

3. Red Juneating. 

There are several varieties of this early apple 5 
and the qualities of all that I have seen much resem- 
ble each other. The trees are of an upright slender 
habit, of a medium stature ; the fruit of a moderate 
size, red, generally a little striped ; flavor pleasant ; 
ripens early. The juneatings are all table fruits, and 
are rarely used for culinary purposes. Trees free 
bearers. 



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DESCRIPTIVE LISTS. 



167 



4. Summer Pearmain. 
The summer pearmain is too well known as a 
fruit of the first order, to require any recommenda- 
tion or description of its good qualities, only that it 
deserves a place in every good collection of fruit, as 
an excellent summer apple. It ripens in August and 
September ; tree an abundant bearer. 

5. Fall Harvey. 
A fine large fall and early winter apple, exten- 
sively cultivated in the state of Massachusetts, more 
particularly in the county of Essex, where, accord- 
ing to the opinion of Mr Manning, it may have ori- 
ginated, who says, " It is., without question, the 
finest fall and early winter apple _;" a good bearer, 
and deserving extensive cultivation. 

6. Hawthomdean. 
A very handsome middle sized apple, with a rich 
juicy white flesh and yellow skin with red next the 
sun ; well adapted for a fruit garden. The Haw- 
thomdean is evidently one of the best kind of apples 
we have to cultivate in a close confined ground, as 
it bears on very small trees, and gives a good annual 
produce, and is one of the best apples for the mar- 
ket in the fall. Bears equally well in any part of 
the Middle States. 

7. Porter. 

" Originated on the farm of the Rev. Samuel 
Porter, in Sherburne, Mass." — Manning. This 
fine fruit ripens in September and October, and may 
be considered as a superior apple in quality, and a 
first rate bearer. 



168 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



8. Ribstone Pippin. 

The best table apple of its season inEngland, which 
is in December and January, but in this climate it 
ripens in October and November, and does not possess 
the rich aromatic flavor as in its native country. The 
tree grows with us to a moderate size, and the fruit 
is fine, as a fall apple ; the color of a russet yellow 
mingled with red nearest the sun. It should find a 
place in every good collection of fruit. 

9. Golden Russet. 

A pretty variety of the russet, said to have ori- 
ginated in Essex county, Mass. ; an abundant bearer, 
and a thrifty growing tree ; fruit rather under a mo- 
derate side, of a rich pleasant flavor ; an excellent 
bearer in Massachusetts, and probably deserving to 
be more cultivated in every part of the middle states. 

10. Blue Pearmain. 

This fruit is so well known that a description 
would be useless in this place. It is ripe in Octo- 
ber, and keeps well through the winter months ; a 
free bearing tree and should find a place in every 
Orchard in the states. 

11. Baldwin. 

This variety is said to be a native of Massachu- 
setts, where it is raised in great quantities for winter 
use. The tree is of a vigorous upright growth and 
regular form, bearing heavy crops of fruit every al- 
ternate year. 

u The fruit is round, of a pale color in the shade, 
fine scarlet or crimson next the sun, sometimes red 



/ 



DESCRIPTIVE LISTS. 



169 



on every side. The flesh is white, breaking, juicy, 
rich, saccharine, with a most agreeable acid, and 
excellent flavor." — Kenrick. 

12. Seek-no-further. 

u A large round fruit, contracted toward the sum- 
mit ; of a fine deep red color ; the flavor sweet and 
excellent, relieved by a slight acid. It ripens in 
October, and keeps till March. The tree is a very 
great bearer. A Rhode Island fruit." — Kenrick. 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEARS. 

1. Madeline. (Citron des Carmes.) 
A pale yellow fruit of a medium size ; a little 
blush nearest the sun. One of the finest varieties of 
early pears, and generally a good bearer. 

2. Green Chissel. 
A very old early variety. Tree of a sraall up- 
right habit, with thick dark leaves ; fruit in clusters 
of a small round green form, brown next the sun ; 
generally a good bearer. 

3. Julienne. 
A handsome growing tree, and good bearer. The 
fruit is of a medium size, of a smooth yellow skin, 
and of an excellent quality, and is said by Mr Ken- 
rick to be u one of the most beautiful and valuable 
fruits of its season, and deserving an extensive cul- 
tivation. It ripens in August." 



170 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



4. Andrews. 
One of the best fall pears in the vicinity of Bos- 
ton, and highly deserving a more general introduc- 
tion. 

" The fruit is of a large size, form inclining to an 
oblong, melting and of a most excellent flavor. It 
ripens in September." — -Kenrick. 

5. Williams* Bon Cretien. 
This may be said to be one of the best pears of 
its season cultivated in the vicinity of Boston, and 
will probably flourish in most parts of the states. 

<3. Seckel. 

The seckel is so well known as a pear of the first 
order for the dessert, that any recommendation here 
would be superfluous ; but I must say that it should 
find a place in every collection of fruit in the or- 
chard and garden. The tree thrives and bears well 
in most parts of the states ; produces fruit when 
small, and will grow in almost any situations. It 
requires more pruning than the pear in general owing 
to its growing to a thick bushy head, which has to 
be thinned in order that it may bear freely. 

7o GanseVs Bergamot. 
One of the finest varieties of bergamots ; bears 
w T ell in the vicinity of Albany, and deserves a trial 
in most parts of the United States. Mr Manning 
observes, "It has the reputation of being a bad 
bearer, but in the gardens in Salem it produces 
good crops." The fruit is ripe in October, and of 
a fine, melting, delicious flavour. 



4 



DESCRIPTIVE LISTS. 



171 



8. Dix. 

" A fine pear ; originated in the garden of Mrs 
Dix, in Boston. It sprung from the seed about 
1812. The tree is of medium vigor, the young 
wood is thorny. It is very productive. The fruit 
large, oblong ; the skin rough, thick, green, but 
yellow at maturity, with a blush on the side exposed 
to the sun ; the stalk short and situated on its sum- 
mit ; flesh melting, juicy, rich, and of fine flavor, 
and is thought to be even superior to the St Ger- 
main." — Kenrick. 

This fine pear ripens in October, and deserve a 
place in every collection as a first rate autumn fruit. 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF THE QUINCE. 

There are so few varieties of the quince, that it 
seldom occurs to the planter when purchasing to 
apply for any specific name or variety ; he merely 
inquires for "the quince." However, like other 
fruit, it deserves some attention in selection. Of 
this I was fully convinced last year on a visit to the 
garden of Marshall P. Wilder, Esq., of Dorchester, 
by noticing a new variety loaded with beautiful fruit, 
growing by the side of an old kind that was almost 
past bearing, and the fruit which was on the tree of 
inferior quality. The following varieties quoted 
from Kenrick's Orchardist are the best I am ac- 
quainted with. 

1. Orange Quince (Maliforma or Jlpple Quince) y 
Is a large, roundish, beautiful fruit, ripening in 
November. The leaves are oval and woolly the 
lower side. 



172 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



2. Oblong, or Pear Quince (Oblonga). 
This fruit is pear shaped, lengthened at the base. 
Leaves oblong ovate. 

3. Portugal Quince (Lusitanica) . 
This fruit is of a variable form, sometimes pear- 
shaped ; very juicy and astringent : it is highly es- 
teemed. London states that it is rather a shy 
bearer. Leaves obovate, woolly above. 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF GRAPES, 

In giving a descriptive list of grapes, I have con" 
fined it to six varieties which I hope will combine 
all the qualities requisite for a small collection. I 
have been careful to select those which are good 
bearers and which possess other desirable qualities. 

1. White Sweetwater. 
The white sweetwater is a hardy growing vine, 
and generally a good bearer in the vinery. In fa- 
vorable seasons it bears very good crops of fruit in 
open culture. The wood is hardy, short jointed, 
follicles of a dark green ; inclined to a purple on the 
stalks : bunches large, long, well shouldered : the 
berries of a moderate size : round : of a greenish 
yellow when partly ripe ; when fully ripe, of a yel- 
low amber : the flower rich and juicy. The best 
earlv forcing grape on the list. 



DESCRIPTIVE LISTS* 



173 



2. Black Frontignac. 

"The bunches are rather short, and below the 
medium size, and loosely formed ; the berries are of 
a medium size, round, black, and covered with a 
blue bloom ; the flavor is vinous, sweet, and musky." 
— Kenrick. 

One of the best black grapes for general culture 
in the vinery. 

3. Black Hamburgh. 

One of the best grapes known for the vinery, and 
more grown than any other variety. The bunches 
are well shouldered, the berries oval, and, when well 
ripened, of a very dark purple, approaching to a 
black color ; but when the season or management 
has not been favorable, the berries are red, and 
hence the name, often incorrectly applied, of Red 
Hamburgh. This fine variety has been much dis- 
seminated from the famous vine at Hampton Court, 
(England) which is no doubt one of the originals. 

4. Frackenthal. 
A very excellent black grape, bearing some re- 
semblance to the Black Hamburgh, but longer 
bunches ; of an excellent flavor, and a good bearer ; 
cultivated to great perfection by Mr McCowan, at 
the Hon. J. Perkins's, Brookline, near Boston. 

5. Early White Muscadine. 
A very productive white grape, with small com- 
pact bunches, and highly deserving culture in a small 
vinery, when a variety is desirable. 



174- 



FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION. 



6. White Muscat of Alexandria. 
This is one of the most highly esteemed varieties 
of musk-flavored grape, and surpassed by none when 
well grown and ripened. It is, however, a shy 
bearer, and cannot be recommended for general cul- 
tivation. It requires considerable heat, and should 
be planted in the warmest end of the house. The 
bunches are long, and generally thin of berries, 
which are large, oval, and yellow, when well rip- 
ened. 



/ 



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